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2017 Z71 crew short bed. So far, I love it. 3 weeks old and 3,000 miles averaging 28.9 mpg. Would definitely like to have had the option of heated mirrors and full leather on the Z71. Ride is comfortable but i think the factory ride height is too low. Next week it goes in the shop for a 6" lift and 305/50/20's.
Did you get your life and 305 tires? Curious of your fuel economy
 

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40K miles, not one issue to date and it runs awesome. As a gearhead, I can tell by the low intake hum, fuel economy and how smoothly and responsively it runs that my 2.8 is running dead on crispy critter tits perfect. As long as it does not suddenly decide to blow up, I will continue to love it :LOL:
 

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The 2021 truck is going to interesting. This may be it for the baby duramax.
 

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Burgess159 thanks for the offer! I do get out on the highway often. I travel for work and if it's 6 hours or less to drive I skip the whole airport/rental car/ get stuck by bad weather circus! Much rather see the countryside and burn off my emissions components. I'm also using a fuel additive that is supposed to reduce the amount of ash created. We'll see how that goes.

I was able to find comprehensive 6 year/100K mile extended warranty that includes emissions components. I'll be ready for that tune the second that warranty expires!

Dave
What did the extended warranty cost. I have 2k to go before the 36 k b to b expires
 

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If you ever want to see how tuned/ deleted truck runs, maybe we can meet up some time and you can give it a drive. Hope this all helps you. Oh, and yes, tuning (even emissions intact) will void your warranty.
i am in St. Louis but my truck is registered far away where there are no inspections. I bought the AFE full delete exhaust and the GDE tune before the crackdown. I haven’t installed either as I’m waiting for it to get past when the power train warranty period is over... now 2 years away. I just hope I don’t run into any technical difficulties. I have the original GDE tune and the updated one to work with the newer version of EFI live. Both will live on a notebook computer until the day comes. It would be nice if there was someone local who has installed the GDE tune to walk me through it when the time comes.

Over the next month I will be doing close to 4000 miles of towing trailers between 3500 and 4500 pounds. It will be a good test before the bumper to bumper expires in April.
 

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i am in St. Louis but my truck is registered far away where there are no inspections. I bought the AFE full delete exhaust and the GDE tune before the crackdown. I haven’t installed either as I’m waiting for it to get past when the power train warranty period is over... now 2 years away.
Lucky and patient you, scoring the tune and exhaust parts before the crackdown :cool:

The big incentive to tune early for me (also GDE, emissions intact tune, installed at 10K miles as soon as it was available) was to turn off EGR. These motors run a lot of EGR and only hold 6 quarts of oil, vs. the similar displacement 3.0 Eco Diesel which holds 10.5. As you know, the oil turns black fast from EGR.

Black oil completely goes away after installing the tune, after 7.5K miles of running the oil is dark brown, you would never know it did not come out of a gas engine. Of course the not inconsiderable downside is you lose your 5/60 power train warranty, and that sucks if the engine decides to blow up. Back when I tuned, while the older 2.8s in the Aussie market in Holdens had niggly problems, catastrophic engine failure was simply not a thing, so I was not concerned back then. We have seen a few catastrophic failures since then, so it is a worry now. Damned if you tune due to warranty loss, damned by EGR if you don't tune it seems. If in your shoes I would hold off on installing the tune also, to be honest, but the temptation would torture me.

Running stock, I would definitely change the oil early, not going the 7.5K miles GM specifies, running it 5K tops, not because the oil is "worn out" but because it is totally loaded with EGR soot. Have no idea if I am right, but my theory is at least some of the piston/pin failures we have seen are due to the 2.8's small 6 quart oil capacity and heavy EGR load. The 3.0 Eco D had crank failures too, and FCA changed their oil recommendation to Rotella T6. It was thought those failures were at least in part due to the originally specified oil not being able to handle the soot load, this on an engine with a 10.5 quart sump.

I like 5/40 oil and personally run T6, which is not Dexos 2, but it is a HDEO and easy to get, and my warranty is toast anyway. Would also suggest running a catch can, as all that EGR and oil makes a gooey mess in the intake and cakes over the MAP sensor too. EGR alone is preferable to oil and EGR, as at least it is "dry". Best of course is no EGR and no oil...

Unlike the latest V6 engine, which has a sweet PCV baffle system that catches all the oil, the 2.8 has a simple old school "bung" in the valve cover and pass lots of PCV mist oil. My Provent 200 catch can is mounted up by the radiator and the lengthy dirty air hose from the valve cover goes slightly uphill as a result, and I still get a lot of oil in the can. The engine does not burn oil, only using about half a quart during the oil last 7.5K change interval - I wager easily 1/3 to perhaps 1/2 of that "burned" oil is actually PCV mist oil that shows up in my catch can, despite the long and uphill feed hose. :rolleyes:

Attached are a couple of pics showing the uphill hose routing, oil on top of the catch can element (often more than this right after driving, this is after sitting overnight) and oil seep at the valve cover bung - I just tightened up that hose clamp a bit, it was a wee bit loose, has been on there 30K miles now.

Like to run it w/o the 2.8 beauty cover, as I dig the punk oil refinery look :LOL:
 

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It’s really great tuned!
I’m tuned since 4000 miles and now have 44000 miles with never an issue.
A lot of fun with the pedal.
I’m lifted with a sport tune.
maybe gears soon.

untuned stock very boring and scary when you have to merge on a fast highway!!
 

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Clean those map sensors. Caked by 20,000 miles. No way it can function correctly
Checked mine, truck has been tuned since 10K with EGR off since then, has 38K on it now. It was a little dirty, but not bad. It is not hard to imagine the photos shown earlier in this thread being the common finding for stock trucks.

Beating dead horse again, but the caked sensor is indicative of a caked intake system. Catch cans are a good thing to do, removing the oil at least removes the "goo" aspect.
 
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After reading through a number of different posts and comments on numerous topics, I have found a common theme. And perhaps you get this with any vehicle, I'm not sure. I wouldn't think you should get it with a brand new one however.

But that common theme is either; you absolutely love your truck and have had no issues with it after a couple of thousand miles, or; you absolutely hate it, or are at least very frustrated, and have had numerous issues within the first thousand miles.

My question is who has a good one and who has a bad one. Also, when did you buy your truck and is a Chevy or GMC. And if you have problems with it, what are they. Thanks.
2018 Chevy Colorado Z71 Duramax crew cab long bed, 30,000 miles. LOVE IT!
I am 2nd owner. Bought truck a year ago with 20K miles on it. I have had no issues at all. I've been driving a GMC 2004 HD2500 for 16 years and love that truck. In 2018 I bought a 2017 Tacoma with only 15K miles on it, wanting to move from my full size to a mid size truck (I kept the GMC 2500 to haul horses and other--it only has 170K miles). I absolutely HATED the Tacoma for many reasons, but mostly because of the engine/transmission characteristics (constantly searching for gears and shifting) and the noisy cab. I am a guy who tends to keep a vehicle for 10+ years and was hoping/planning to do so with the Tacoma----but I couldn't stand it, and traded it for the 2018 Chevy. Comparatively, I love the truck and the engine.....local, highway, off road.....I even took the stock truck up to some alpine lakes on a gnarly 4WD very rocky trail and it crawled beautifully. Love the torque in this engine, the cab is quieter than the Tacoma, I think the ride quality is better, 70-80 mph at around 2000 rpm and the engine pulls rather than shifts up and down---I live in Colorado. The Tacoma did the same between 3500-4500 rpm and was constantly up and down shifting to find gears. Drove me crazy, even after aftermarket software flash 'fix'. Very satisfied with this Chevy. My only complaint so far...that oil filter is a messy pain in the ass. Otherwise, I'll probably own this for 15 years like my older one.
 

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I hate gas engines down shifting all the time also. Drives me crazy too. Really like the way the little 2.8 holds top gear on even big hills on the highway.

i really don’t like the oil filter on these trucks. It’s like a hard cardboard. Doesn’t look like high quality filter material. why GM did such a stupid move like this is beyond me.
GM put a screw on filter on the damn engine......
 

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Discussion Starter #153
2018 Chevy Colorado Z71 Duramax crew cab long bed, 30,000 miles. LOVE IT!
I am 2nd owner. Bought truck a year ago with 20K miles on it. I have had no issues at all. I've been driving a GMC 2004 HD2500 for 16 years and love that truck. In 2018 I bought a 2017 Tacoma with only 15K miles on it, wanting to move from my full size to a mid size truck (I kept the GMC 2500 to haul horses and other--it only has 170K miles). I absolutely HATED the Tacoma for many reasons, but mostly because of the engine/transmission characteristics (constantly searching for gears and shifting) and the noisy cab. I am a guy who tends to keep a vehicle for 10+ years and was hoping/planning to do so with the Tacoma----but I couldn't stand it, and traded it for the 2018 Chevy. Comparatively, I love the truck and the engine.....local, highway, off road.....I even took the stock truck up to some alpine lakes on a gnarly 4WD very rocky trail and it crawled beautifully. Love the torque in this engine, the cab is quieter than the Tacoma, I think the ride quality is better, 70-80 mph at around 2000 rpm and the engine pulls rather than shifts up and down---I live in Colorado. The Tacoma did the same between 3500-4500 rpm and was constantly up and down shifting to find gears. Drove me crazy, even after aftermarket software flash 'fix'. Very satisfied with this Chevy. My only complaint so far...that oil filter is a messy pain in the ass. Otherwise, I'll probably own this for 15 years like my older one.
so you don’t get a mess when changing the filter: drain oil from pan, then go and loosen your oil filter until it turns freely and then leave it for 15 minutes or so. Come back, Pull the filter out then and you shouldn’t get a mess. I used to get a mess then someone told me to do this and I’ve been good since. Also, when installing the new filter, press it into the filter head cap piece first and then insert the whole deal down into the engine. Supposed to help when you remove the filter next time I think.
 

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Recently changed the trans fluid in mine, used the Mobil1 LV HP fully synthetic fluid for the shuddering 8 speeds. Wow! The fluid change made a nice difference in how it shifts. It feels worthy of being in a Lexus SUV now.

You can get Dex 6 in fully synthetic too (Mobil 1 "black label") but I think the "blue label" LV HP is the complete and total shiznits for our transmissions. Others swear by Amsoil, I have no doubt it is great as well. Anyway, try changing the trans fluid a little early and use full synthetic. Doing this service is not difficult to do yourself if you have a hand pump to transfer fluid and store to return the used fluid to.
 
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Clean those map sensors. Caked by 20,000 miles. No way it can function correctly
Hey, I just purchased a 2017 Colorado Diesel with 16,000 miles. I just put on an ADP catch can, completely stock. Where is the MAP sensor that should be cleaned? I think I should probably take a look at/clean the MAF too.
 

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Hey, I just purchased a 2017 Colorado Diesel with 16,000 miles. I just put on an ADP catch can, completely stock. Where is the MAP sensor that should be cleaned? I think I should probably take a look at/clean the MAF too.
Remove the 2.8 cover, it is on the left side of the EGR housing right here:

8661


There is only one bolt holding it on, you can pull it, put a rag under it, spray with cleaner and re-install. The electrical connector on mine was fiddly - did not want to break it so I just cleaned it in place. My truck was tuned at 10K so EGR got turned off then, and it had a catch can since day 1, so the sensor was not terrible, but it had crud on it for sure.
 

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Remove the 2.8 cover, it is on the left side of the EGR housing right here:

View attachment 8661

There is only one bolt holding it on, you can pull it, put a rag under it, spray with cleaner and re-install. The electrical connector on mine was fiddly - did not want to break it so I just cleaned it in place. My truck was tuned at 10K so EGR got turned off then, and it had a catch can since day 1, so the sensor was not terrible, but it had crud on it for sure.
what are you using to clean it ???

Rob
 

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I hit it with some canned electrical solvent and a toothbrush. That worked well as mine was not too crusty. Any petroleum solvent should do - brake cleaner or gas should work.
 
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