Amsoil by pass filtration

5726 Views 12 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Lester C Rodan, Apr 4, 2021

Tonyg

Discussion Starter · Aug 15, 2016

Has anyone attempted to install a by pass oil filter system ?

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Coloradorob

· #2 · Dec 30, 2018

Tonyg said:
Has anyone attempted to install a by pass oil filter system ?

I sent an email to AMSOIL about making a kit for our trucks. They didn’t comment on it though.

I would really like to see this mod. If you search you can see that the soot in a Diesel engine is abrasive.
This is one of the reasons I would never do extendoil changes on a diesel.

We need to find a safe place to tap into the high pressure side of the oil system a then a place to return the clean oil.
There is a concern with these systems. They lower your oil pressure just a bit. Some of the oil pressure is diverted to the bypass filter. Theory is it’s better for the motor to have clean oil over a small lose in pressure.

I have seen where one guy drilled a hole in the oil fill cap for the clean oil return line.

The nice thing about a screw on filter instead of the paper cartridge style we have is that you can get an adapter that goes under the screw on filter that supplies a cone place for the bypass filter. Making install a complete no brainer.

Also I not a fan of this cheap paper oil filters we have to use. There are much better filters out there to choose from in the screw on design. Like AMSOIL....

Rob

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jl240z

· #3 · Jan 1, 2021

Hello, I have owned my ZR2 diesel since 2017 when i purchased it new. Now has 15k miles on it. I just now learned about the by-pass oil filter systems. Its a great idea i think but i have only found one company that makes a dedicated kit and it costs over $500! I want to keep this truck as i really like it. However i wonder if the cost is worth it. I suppose it is if i keep it for good. What surprises me is as far as i know the 2.8 duramax has been in a colorado/canyon for over 4 years and yet there is limited to no info on installing one of these systems on it. One issue is the type oil filter this engine uses because it doesnt support the spin on adaptor for the output line to the by-pass filter. I was told by a vendor i could put a "T" fitting where the oil pressure sensor is to supply it but I havent really checked that out. I wonder if there is a place or line to the stock filter housing that could be used? /Again i havent really looked at it closely I have emailed Amsol to see what they say but never heard back from them and they only sell a universal kit that offers no details. Since the post on this topic is pretty old i guess nobody else was very interested in doing the mod. I will also be doing the oil catch can mod. I wont do any deletes as in addition to the warranty issues if i did want to trade in the truck, no dealer would take it due to the epa stuff. I know i loose money on a trade but selling a truck privately is a major PITA. I considered buying a complete kit for another truck and modifying it to fit but the input issue still looms. If there have been any other updates since the last post in 2018 please comment. Thanks

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Lester C Rodan

· #4 · Mar 25, 2021

Insane Diesel in Utah is the only firm with a kit, as as stated above, it is $500 +. One of the reasons is that they have had unique special fitting made to enable a bypass kit to be installed. They paid for a run from Parker of an adjustable Tee. This is not a standard fitting, so you'll need to get it from them.

How do I know? Well in these COVID times stuck at home I spent a bunch of time researching it. I already had ll of the parts needed to do an oil bypass system, except that darn fitting. I called them and spoke to them and found them to be really good people. Yes, I got a fitting from them; so I'll be installing it on my baby Duramax in the next couple of weeks.

The kit from Insane Diesel can be found here:

Duramax 2.8L Colorado / Canyon Bypass Oil Filter Kit

Looks like a nice kit with good components. I ordered an oil cap to adapt with fittings I have in the shop from Summit Racing to add into the rest of the stuff I already have.

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jl240z

· #5 · Mar 26, 2021

I wound up buying the complete kit from them. By the time i got all the other stuff i would need to make my own and the time to get it plus the fitting, I would have spent more. Plus they had it on sale and I also got an extra filter for my next oil change, It seems to work pretty well. I had just changed my oil less than 100 miles at the time so i didnt do it again after I installed the kit. It seemed to clear up the normally black sluge colored oil almost right away. Its not new oil clear but much better., I plan to do an early oil change anyway as I had almost 15,000 miles on my engine already and figured it would take at least one more change with new filters to get operating at its peak I had also installed an oil catch can but it doesnt seem to collect much at this time. I had read the catch cans can take awhile to collect oil. When i installed it i did see some oil film in the intake of the turbo but it wasnt more than a fillm. I did not take the egr apart to see how coked up it was. My engine has never used any oil between oil changes its always at the proper level. My truck will be four years old in June and I have not had any problems at all,. I did take it in for the two recalls for the emmission system re program. My truck doesnt seem to use much def fluid for some reason and i dont know if the reprogram had anything to do with it or not. I always use some sort of fuel additive whenever i fill the tank and i seem to get really good mileage. So i am happy with it for sure. The dealer keeps contacting me wanting to buy it back so they can try to sell me a new one, With chevys decision to discontinue the diesel in the colorado, i doubt i will ever replace it. I wont do a delete unless the system goes so bad i would have to replace to much of it. I am more than happy to comply with the emissions rules but when i learned that the def fluid can go bad or crystalize and screw up the system i decided I would delete it all if that ever happened. They want to clean up the air and thats fine but I shouldnt have to pay for the equipment twice to do that. I bought a tester to test the def thats in the truck and got a manuel that I hope outlines how to drain the tank should the fluid go bad. I also change the fuel filters every oil change as well. I dont know when I will change the coolant as long as it shows no rust in the system or if it tests bad. I will eventually change the brake fluid as where i live is usually pretty humid and i dont want the brake system to get corrupted with moisture. Its likely this will be the last vehicle i ever buy as i wont live forever but I hate the process of buying a new vehicle, For once I think I finally made a good decision when buying a vehicle,

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jl240z

· #6 · Mar 26, 2021

Coloradorob said:
I sent an email to AMSOIL about making a kit for our trucks. They didn’t comment on it though.

I would really like to see this mod. If you search you can see that the soot in a Diesel engine is abrasive.
This is one of the reasons I would never do extendoil changes on a diesel.

We need to find a safe place to tap into the high pressure side of the oil system a then a place to return the clean oil.
There is a concern with these systems. They lower your oil pressure just a bit. Some of the oil pressure is diverted to the bypass filter. Theory is it’s better for the motor to have clean oil over a small lose in pressure.

I have seen where one guy drilled a hole in the oil fill cap for the clean oil return line.

The nice thing about a screw on filter instead of the paper cartridge style we have is that you can get an adapter that goes under the screw on filter that supplies a cone place for the bypass filter. Making install a complete no brainer.

Also I not a fan of this cheap paper oil filters we have to use. There are much better filters out there to choose from in the screw on design. Like AMSOIL....

Rob

I had contacted Amsoil as well. It took them weeks to reply and they were very noncommital. I doubt they will ever make a kit for the colorado unless they can sell a large quantity and make a huge profit. Cant blame them really but they have everything to do it except for the fitting that Insane Diesel has, BTW i bought and installed their kit. It works very well and has everything you need. No looking for other parts to complete the install. Call Adrian at their company he was very helpful and answered all my questions.

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Coloradorob

· #7 · Mar 27, 2021

jl240z said:
I had contacted Amsoil as well. It took them weeks to reply and they were very noncommital. I doubt they will ever make a kit for the colorado unless they can sell a large quantity and make a huge profit. Cant blame them really but they have everything to do it except for the fitting that Insane Diesel has, BTW i bought and installed their kit. It works very well and has everything you need. No looking for other parts to complete the install. Call Adrian at their company he was very helpful and answered all my questions.

I been looking at there web site.
I came across a video that shows the kit on an Ecodiesel .
what spooked me was how high the flow rate was.
on a bypass kit you don’t want a lot of oil passing through the filter because that will reduce the oil pressure and flow for the motor. I suppose as the bypass filter gets dirty the flow rate will be reduced and that will leave more pressure to circulate in the motor....
Also in that video it shows how much soot was removed from the oil in only 4 hrs. I would like to see about half that flow through the bypass....

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jl240z

· #8 · Mar 27, 2021

Coloradorob said:
I been looking at there web site.
I came across a video that shows the kit on an Ecodiesel .
what spooked me was how high the flow rate was.
on a bypass kit you don’t want a lot of oil passing through the filter because that will reduce the oil pressure and flow for the motor. I suppose as the bypass filter gets dirty the flow rate will be reduced and that will leave more pressure to circulate in the motor....
Also in that video it shows how much soot was removed from the oil in only 4 hrs. I would like to see about half that flow through the bypass....

I think Insane told me or i read the amount of bypass was about 10 percent of whatever is normal. I dont see any significant reduction in the oil pressure but since you mention it I will look at it more closely. The bypass filter does get grubby really quick but compared to the stock filter it is very dense. No its not toilet paper, its their secret whatever it is. For a hoot I unscrewed the oil fill cap while the engine was running and the return is more of a slow flow not really a pressurized flow. I liked their design of the elbow fitting on top of the c ap. Its a 90 degree and rotates so you can direct the return line from the bypass filter. Its a really nice billet piece. When i was thinking about making my own system i was just going to drill a hole in the cap for a fitting. I believe it wouldnt have worked as well as theirs.Anyway I am pretty sure they did a lot of research to their design before selling the kit. If you get their kit get both brackets for the filter housing. I mounted it between the air filter box and the front support only with the u shaped bracket bolted to the fender well and it still wobbled a lot. I had to make another bracket bolted at the top pivot and the front framework and tho its a bit crude its all solid as a rock now. There is little space to work in there and its a bit hard to get hands in at the bottom to direct the lower in and out fittings. I couldnt mount it back near the overflo tank as thats where I put the catch can stuff. I adjusted all my brackets to put the top of the bypass filter housing high enough to make changing the filter easier but not to high so it hits the hood., Make sure you torque the filter housing per their speck. I was worried about overtightening and only used the allen wrench. It came loose and dumped a bit of oil down onto the skid plate. I thought i really screwed up til i saw the lid was loose. 35 ft pounds and no more leak. So far its working great. Very nice kit with everything you need. Another clue that its low pressure Is all the fittings are the type that you push the line on with no clamps. I was concerned about that as the lines and the filter houseing do get hot. But so far no leaks at all. I may sneak a zip tie in there later but Adrian said its not necessary

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Coloradorob

· #9 · Mar 27, 2021

jl240z said:
I think Insane told me or i read the amount of bypass was about 10 percent of whatever is normal. I dont see any significant reduction in the oil pressure but since you mention it I will look at it more closely. The bypass filter does get grubby really quick but compared to the stock filter it is very dense. No its not toilet paper, its their secret whatever it is. For a hoot I unscrewed the oil fill cap while the engine was running and the return is more of a slow flow not really a pressurized flow. I liked their design of the elbow fitting on top of the c ap. Its a 90 degree and rotates so you can direct the return line from the bypass filter. Its a really nice billet piece. When i was thinking about making my own system i was just going to drill a hole in the cap for a fitting. I believe it wouldnt have worked as well as theirs.Anyway I am pretty sure they did a lot of research to their design before selling the kit. If you get their kit get both brackets for the filter housing. I mounted it between the air filter box and the front support only with the u shaped bracket bolted to the fender well and it still wobbled a lot. I had to make another bracket bolted at the top pivot and the front framework and tho its a bit crude its all solid as a rock now. There is little space to work in there and its a bit hard to get hands in at the bottom to direct the lower in and out fittings. I couldnt mount it back near the overflo tank as thats where I put the catch can stuff. I adjusted all my brackets to put the top of the bypass filter housing high enough to make changing the filter easier but not to high so it hits the hood., Make sure you torque the filter housing per their speck. I was worried about overtightening and only used the allen wrench. It came loose and dumped a bit of oil down onto the skid plate. I thought i really screwed up til i saw the lid was loose. 35 ft pounds and no more leak. So far its working great. Very nice kit with everything you need. Another clue that its low pressure Is all the fittings are the type that you push the line on with no clamps. I was concerned about that as the lines and the filter houseing do get hot. But so far no leaks at all. I may sneak a zip tie in there later but Adrian said its not necessary

Good info.
did you have any issues installing the T fitting for the high pressure tap at the oil pressure sensor location.
That looks like a tight spot....

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jl240z

· #10 · Mar 27, 2021

Coloradorob said:
Good info.
did you have any issues installing the T fitting for the high pressure tap at the oil pressure sensor location.
That looks like a tight spot....

he
Not really, Once you take out the intake ductwork in front of the turbo, there is more room to get your hands in there. It is set up so that you can clock it in the direction you want the hose to go. I didnt need to use that feature for some reason it aimed right where i wanted it. Make sure you use pipe dope for all the fittings. It works way better than the old teflon tape. The whole install wasnt that bad. My biggest problem was creating the bracket to hold up the bracket on the filter housing and bolting it to the fender well. Luckily i had a set of stubby wrenches as normal long ones wouldnt work for me. I had to move the horns to get the housing in there but luckily i was able to bolt them back in down lower and they even still work. There will always be a need to make adjustments to do stuff like this. Its not always easy but there always seems to be a way It just takes time. .

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Lester C Rodan

· #11 · Apr 3, 2021 (Edited)

I ordered the special Tee fitting from Insane Diesel. Good guys there. I went ahead and made up my bypass kit from fittings, hose, and filter stuff I have in the shop since I have a lot of dealings with WIX filters on racing programs. As I pointed out above, I ordered the oil cap fitting from Summit Racing, it is made by Earls. It has a -10 AN ORB Female thread in the top. I put a -10AN ORB X 1/4" NPY Bushing into it and then a 1/4" NPT X -4 swivel AN fitting. Made a little bracket for the filter adapter and presto, all hooked up and working well.

The filter is a WIX 51051 By-pass oil filter which has flow restriction built into it. I monitored my oil pressure before th install and after, and have seen no drop or loss of oil pressure. There are 2 of these filters, one larger than the other. I used the smaller one so it wouldn't hit the horns. The other one is a P/N: 51050, and is the size of a typical PF2 spin on filter.

UPDATE: After driving about 200 miles with this system, I just didn't feel good about the oil pressure. It was getting about 11 PSIG at idle with the oil hot, and I use Mobil 1 Dexos 2 rated 0W/40. At 2000 RPM it was giving 40 PSIG. This sin't bad, but I just wanted a little more to feel good. The restriction in the filter is a 1/16th hole; I didn't put any other restrictions in the system. Well, I modified a 1/8" NPT to -4 fitting that I put into the Tee on the oil sensor line. I drilled and tapped a 1/4" - 20 three into the inlet side and then drilled a 14" 20 set screw with a 0.041" hole to act as a restriction. Didn't see a big jump in oil pressure, but did see some to make me feel a little better. Now at an idle I'm seeing 12-13 PSIG and at 2,000 RPM going down the highway it is at 45-47 PSIG.

Just an observation, but the oil pressure in this engine seems to be regulated on a sliding scale by engine RPM. Generally there is a lower pressure at idle because, well the oil pump is not turning as fast. But typically once an engine comes off idle, the pressure will zip right up to the relief spring set-point at 1,000 - 1,200 RPM. This seems to follow a ratio of about 20 PSI / 1000 RPM all of the way up until it hits about 65 PSIG...

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Coloradorob

· #12 · Apr 4, 2021

Lester C Rodan said:
I ordered the special Tee fitting from Insane Diesel. Good guys there. I went ahead and made up my bypass kit from fittings, hose, and filter stuff I have in the shop since I have a lot of dealings with WIX filters on racing programs. As I pointed out above, I ordered the oil cap fitting from Summit Racing, it is made by Earls. It has a -10 AN ORB Female thread in the top. I put a -10AN ORB X 1/4" NPY Bushing into it and then a 1/4" NPT X -4 swivel AN fitting. Made a little bracket for the filter adapter and presto, all hooked up and working well.

The filter is a WIX 51051 By-pass oil filter which has flow restriction built into it. I monitored my oil pressure before th install and after, and have seen no drop or loss of oil pressure. There are 2 of these filters, one larger than the other. I used the smaller one so it wouldn't hit the horns. The other one is a P/N: 51050, and is the size of a typical PF2 spin on filter. Photos attached.
View attachment 9087
View attachment 9089 View attachment 9090 View attachment 9091 View attachment 9092 View attachment 9087 View attachment 9089 View attachment 9090 View attachment 9091 View attachment 9092

Nice job
Very professional looking.

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Lester C Rodan

· #13 · Apr 4, 2021

Coloradorob said:
Nice job
Very professional looking.

Thank you...

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