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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is anyone aware of body lifts being available yet for our diesels?

I know they are available for the gassers but its different for the diesels I think because of the turbo downpipe

I would sure like to add a few inches to the body so I can get clearance for larger tires, I have the suspension 2inch leveling in the front and the add a leaf in the back for 2 inches there already
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I thought I read a while back that BDS was going to do a body lift for the diesels........anybody hear that?
 

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I'm not doing big off road so the body lift is all I need so I can get bigger wheels for the look I am after, I'm leveled in the front and add a leaf in the back and still can't get much bigger of a tire under it...........at this point a 3 or 4 inch body lift would be perfect for me
 

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Is anyone aware of body lifts being available yet for our diesels?

I know they are available for the gassers but its different for the diesels I think because of the turbo downpipe

I would sure like to add a few inches to the body so I can get clearance for larger tires, I have the suspension 2inch leveling in the front and the add a leaf in the back for 2 inches there already
Back from the dead zombie post...

May give this a shot with my 2019 ZR2...

Will be 1" body lift using pucks sourced online. Was able to cobble together parts I think I'll need. Including the bolts; some of which are OEM GM (body) and some generic (truck bed) ... all bolts are ~1" longer with same threading and diameter. Also sourced 1" x 2" x 18" stainless rectangular tube for rear bumper step. Based on quick look at truck and instructions from other body lifts, ZR2 looks to be easier, particularly with regards to front bits. At first glance, think the parking brake has enough slack to accommodate 1" body lift without relocation. Also, measurements have me thinking I'll be able re-use the OEM bumper brackets by simply drilling new mount holes 1" below the existing holes.

Chief concern is/are the shroud(s) (engine cooling / radiator)... armchair assessment has me believing two primary components of "shroud(s)" work together to create needed negative pressure to draw in cooler outside air from front of vehicle. Tolerances seem top be slack enough to accommodate 1" lift with only minimal trimming of plastic without compromising "seal" aka negative pressure needed to draw in outside air at prescribed velocity... Almost believe it's possible to improve air velocity / seal tolerances in the process with minimal tweaks... One thing to think about will be the fan and engine-attached shroud effectively moving to an equivalent lower point on the radiator, baring in mind that hotter return coolant is fed into the top of the radiator... so maximum air flow will be moved some amount lower on the radiator. Guessing this could be something to noodle, particularly if you live in a hotter climate w/ denser population and more traffic? Our time is split between the sparsely populated central rockies an smokies ...so seldom, if ever, sitting in very hot stop an go traffic.

Anyhow, if there is an interest... Happy to post parts used, some basic instructions, and results. Lemme know. Also let me know if you're willing to offer any input from experience or pertinent thoughts on this topic.
 

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Back from the dead zombie post...

May give this a shot with my 2019 ZR2...

Will be 1" body lift using pucks sourced online. Was able to cobble together parts I think I'll need. Including the bolts; some of which are OEM GM (body) and some generic (truck bed) ... all bolts are ~1" longer with same threading and diameter. Also sourced 1" x 2" x 18" stainless rectangular tube for rear bumper step. Based on quick look at truck and instructions from other body lifts, ZR2 looks to be easier, particularly with regards to front bits. At first glance, think the parking brake has enough slack to accommodate 1" body lift without relocation. Also, measurements have me thinking I'll be able re-use the OEM bumper brackets by simply drilling new mount holes 1" below the existing holes.

Chief concern is/are the shroud(s) (engine cooling / radiator)... armchair assessment has me believing two primary components of "shroud(s)" work together to create needed negative pressure to draw in cooler outside air from front of vehicle. Tolerances seem top be slack enough to accommodate 1" lift with only minimal trimming of plastic without compromising "seal" aka negative pressure needed to draw in outside air at prescribed velocity... Almost believe it's possible to improve air velocity / seal tolerances in the process with minimal tweaks... One thing to think about will be the fan and engine-attached shroud effectively moving to an equivalent lower point on the radiator, baring in mind that hotter return coolant is fed into the top of the radiator... so maximum air flow will be moved some amount lower on the radiator. Guessing this could be something to noodle, particularly if you live in a hotter climate w/ denser population and more traffic? Our time is split between the sparsely populated central rockies an smokies ...so seldom, if ever, sitting in very hot stop an go traffic.

Anyhow, if there is an interest... Happy to post parts used, some basic instructions, and results. Lemme know. Also let me know if you're willing to offer any input from experience or pertinent thoughts on this topic.
Whats the point of a 1 inch body lift? Way to much trouble and potential headache. Why not just do a leveling kit and a add a leaf in the rear.
 

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Also have 33's, 0.5" diff drop, 1.25" front level, 0.5" rear level, high clearance exhaust (need to install), etc, etc... More than just body lift... gradually re-fitting for moderate off-roading (Moab standards). My 33's don't rub btw with 1.25" level and without winch/bumper if anyone is curious.
 
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