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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have read many threads of people getting near 100,000 miles before needing a brake job.
Where I love you need to get your vehicle inspected. Not for emissions but for mechanical safety.
Its a great way to spur on the economy because it gives service places a great opportunity to rip your asss off.
My truck is 3 years old and has 40,000 miles on it. And it failed because the rear pads and rotors were done.
I couldn’t believe it! And the rear pads and rotors!!
I have seen font brakes wear fast, but the back.
I didn’t believe it and I don’t let others work on my vehicles so I picked it up and said I will bring it back once repaired.
Took it home and sure enough the rotors were rusted to a tapper around the edge.
The pads were down to metal at the top and had all kinds of pad at the bottom.
So yes the pads were worn on an angle. Ether the brake pistons don’t press the pads with equal pressure or the bracket that holds the pads is bending while under pressure Allowing the pads to wear more at the top than the bottom.
ps
My wifes Outback passed with 60,000 miles on it.

GM Duralast rotors suck.
also it cost me 500.00 from the dealer with discount for 2 rotors and 2 sets of pads….
 

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Hard to say there. Mine look fine at 37k (but I don't tow, and I am replacing the rears anyway since my truck sounds like a 1960's ford with all the squeaks from the brakes). My wife's ATS has 165k on the stock front and rear brakes and they still look good too.
 

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I replaced the fluid, pads, and rotors on my fiancé’s TDI; same story a few oil changes later. You must be dragging a brake, my rotors have lasted over 100k on the truck. I think replacing the caliper is one of your only options. Was it both rotors or just one side?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I replaced the fluid, pads, and rotors on my fiancé’s TDI; same story a few oil changes later. You must be dragging a brake, my rotors have lasted over 100k on the truck. I think replacing the caliper is one of your only options. Was it both rotors or just one side?
Both sides worn the same way. Pads at the top down to the metal and at the bottom half the pad material was still there.
I am hard on the brakes. I brake hard and late. But I think the front should be worn out not the rear.
I think there is way to much brake bias to the rear.
 

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Agree, never had the rears burn up before the front. I would be watching the replacements close and call the dealer back about them failing to fix it (when it happens). Hopefully, they will fix the issue and put on a new set at no charge.
 

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Rear brake rotors at 105k miles with heavy towing. Never changed the rotors but did the pads about 65k for my own piece of mind. They all had plenty of life left and same semi metallic pads but aftermarket (sale).
Automotive tire Camera lens Automotive design Camera accessory Grey
 

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Rear brake rotors at 105k miles with heavy towing. Never changed the rotors but did the pads about 65k for my own piece of mind. They all had plenty of life left and same semi metallic pads but aftermarket (sale). View attachment 9245
That surface looks great for 105K
 

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Both sides worn the same way. Pads at the top down to the metal and at the bottom half the pad material was still there.
I am hard on the brakes. I brake hard and late. But I think the front should be worn out not the rear.
I think there is way to much brake bias to the rear.
I just re-read your post and completely missed the part about uneven wear on your pads. Tapered wear is usually too much movement on one side of the caliper guide pin/ bushing or seized on the other or both. It can also happen from improper installation but that seems doubtful with it being factory. I would keep an eye on them each oil change/ tire rotation and hold the dealer accountable if the same problem persists.
 
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