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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First I would like to say this has been one of the most reliable and capable trucks I have ever owned. Love the fuel economy and power easily my favorite truck that I've owned. I bought a 2018 with 13k miles on it 3 years ago. Truck was flawless until 102k when the lower NoX sensor went bad. Replaced it and installed a weight reduction kit. When I did that I found the DEF defuser 70% blocked so it seemed like a good move. Made a big difference in performance and economy. Been averaging 32mpg since. Had the dealer replace the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner at 152k. Yesterday at 176k miles, 2k rpm pulling a 4k lb trailer truck started chugging and spewing white smoke. Pulled over and shut the truck off. Found oil had coated the underside of the truck. Truck started and idled but was shaking badly. Limped it on to the trailer and got it home. Checked the turbo, no end play fins look great. Pulled injector 1 piston looks great. Pulled injector 2 and it's got a hole in it. So here is the question. Rebuild or replace. I'd like to keep the truck and make it bullet proof but I don't know if that's possible with these engines. I don't want any more power just reliability. As it sits now we'll pull the motor, new rods, pistons, and injectors. I was hoping to get 500k miles from this truck. I just don't want a rebuild every 200k. Do you guys have any suggestions to bullet proof the motor long term? Any help is appreciated.
 

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First I would like to say this has been one of the most reliable and capable trucks I have ever owned. Love the fuel economy and power easily my favorite truck that I've owned. I bought a 2018 with 13k miles on it 3 years ago. Truck was flawless until 102k when the lower NoX sensor went bad. Replaced it and installed a weight reduction kit. When I did that I found the DEF defuser 70% blocked so it seemed like a good move. Made a big difference in performance and economy. Been averaging 32mpg since. Had the dealer replace the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner at 152k. Yesterday at 176k miles, 2k rpm pulling a 4k lb trailer truck started chugging and spewing white smoke. Pulled over and shut the truck off. Found oil had coated the underside of the truck. Truck started and idled but was shaking badly. Limped it on to the trailer and got it home. Checked the turbo, no end play fins look great. Pulled injector 1 piston looks great. Pulled injector 2 and it's got a hole in it. So here is the question. Rebuild or replace. I'd like to keep the truck and make it bullet proof but I don't know if that's possible with these engines. I don't want any more power just reliability. As it sits now we'll pull the motor, new rods, pistons, and injectors. I was hoping to get 500k miles from this truck. I just don't want a rebuild every 200k. Do you guys have any suggestions to bullet proof the motor long term? Any help is appreciated.
Sounds like the injector tip cracked or broke off and turned into a blow torch. Was an issue for the 16-18's and the injectors were redesined in for the 19+ trucks. There are some other members on here that could explain better than me.

If shes worth it to you and you're going to tear it down yourself, then yes your list sounds good. Would also see if its possible to upgrade to the 19+ injectors and rail.

Another option would be to get a engine out of a 19+ truck, as far as i know there have been no reports of the injectors turning into a blow torch on the 19+ trucks and i haven't seen anything on wrist pin failure.

Since you say that you're not going for big power the stock internals would be fine, even on a delete tune. Its above the 260whp or so that the rods become the first weak point, but if you are tune only you arent pushing that. All depends on what you want to spend.

If it were me i would try to find a complete low mileage motor from a 19+ truck, would be the most cost/time effective option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds like the injector tip cracked or broke off and turned into a blow torch. Was an issue for the 16-18's and the injectors were redesined in for the 19+ trucks. There are some other members on here that could explain better than me.

If shes worth it to you and you're going to tear it down yourself, then yes your list sounds good. Would also see if its possible to upgrade to the 19+ injectors and rail.

Another option would be to get a engine out of a 19+ truck, as far as i know there have been no reports of the injectors turning into a blow torch on the 19+ trucks and i haven't seen anything on wrist pin failure.

Since you say that you're not going for big power the stock internals would be fine, even on a delete tune. Its above the 260whp or so that the rods become the first weak point, but if you are tune only you arent pushing that. All depends on what you want to spend.

If it were me i would try to find a complete low mileage motor from a 19+ truck, would be the most cost/time effective option.
That would make the most sense. From the little I've found the 19+ injectors require a different wiring harness and ECM tuning. And since my tuner has fallen off the face of the earth I would have to find a new one. I would just rebuild it but I can't find any pistons. Rods and injectors are in stock.
 

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That would make the most sense. From the little I've found the 19+ injectors require a different wiring harness and ECM tuning. And since my tuner has fallen off the face of the earth I would have to find a new one. I would just rebuild it but I can't find any pistons. Rods and injectors are in stock.
Great white north Diesel, you will not be disappointed.

Also let me guess, HD Diesel supply or Offroad truck store?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
You got it. HD Diesel. Love the tune. Good power and fuel economy.

Also just got off the phone with the salvage yard 135k motor no turbo $5000
55k complete $6500
GM parts direct offers one new for 7000 after core. Unless I'm just reading it wrong and it's just the long block. P/N 40009017
 

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You got it. HD Diesel. Love the tune. Good power and fuel economy.

Also just got off the phone with the salvage yard 135k motor no turbo $5000
55k complete $6500
GM parts direct offers one new for 7000 after core. Unless I'm just reading it wrong and it's just the long block. P/N 40009017
I had to replace the engine on my 2016 in may of 2021 with 76k on the clock for the same reason. I was able to get a new one from my local dealer for $6500. It was about a grand more than a salvaged one. Comes with 3yr/100k warranty. To me it was worth buying new, keep looking around on price. You might be able to find one a little cheaper. Of course I got mine before prices went crazy.
 
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