Cracked Piston

Not an oil issue as I’ve always changed oil every 5-7k and OA always perfect. After engine was deleted I switched to 5-40 T6 to help with the shitty shear value of the DEXOS 2 oil.

Bearings show no wear and mic perfect except in same spot where bearing takes load of detonation. This is why I switched to the 5-40 to try and retard the wear in this area.

Cutterman said:

Not an oil issue as I’ve always changed oil every 5-7k and OA always perfect. After engine was deleted I switched to 5-40 T6 to help with the shitty shear value of the DEXOS 2 oil.

Bearings show no wear and mic perfect except in same spot where bearing takes load of detonation. This is why I switched to the 5-40 to try and retard the wear in this area.

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How was your oil pressure? Mine runs some of the highest pressures I have seen on any vehicle I have owned.

Cutterman said:

Not an oil issue as I’ve always changed oil every 5-7k and OA always perfect. After engine was deleted I switched to 5-40 T6 to help with the shitty shear value of the DEXOS 2 oil.

Bearings show no wear and mic perfect except in same spot where bearing takes load of detonation. This is why I switched to the 5-40 to try and retard the wear in this area.

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At what mileage did you switch to T6? The wear on those bearings did not happen overnight.

Limptriscuit said:

At what mileage did you switch to T6? The wear on those bearings did not happen overnight.

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Switched around 14k ago. So around 50k on truck.

Just got her back on the road today all test sat. A/C held vacuum good as I was a little worried with system being open so long. Had to wait almost 4 months for some parts.

Cutterman said:

Switched around 14k ago. So around 50k on truck.

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So around 36k miles on 5w-30 good to know. Not saying that was completely the culprit, but i have been running T6 since my first oil change at 1k miles. Fingers crossed that this is the kind of thing it can help prevent. I couldn't stomach putting a 30w oil in a diesel.

Cutterman said:

Just got her back on the road today all test sat. A/C held vacuum good as I was a little worried with system being open so long. Had to wait almost 4 months for some parts.

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Glad to hear you got her running again.

Limptriscuit said:

So around 36k miles on 5w-30 good to know. Not saying that was completely the culprit, but i have been running T6 since my first oil change at 1k miles. Fingers crossed that this is the kind of thing it can help prevent. I couldn't stomach putting a 30w oil in a diesel.



Glad to hear you got her running again.

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Sorry that was confusing the way I worded that. I ran the 5-30 for close to 50k then switched to T6. I ran T6 for the last 14k miles.

Limptriscuit said:

So around 36k miles on 5w-30 good to know. Not saying that was completely the culprit, but i have been running T6 since my first oil change at 1k miles. Fingers crossed that this is the kind of thing it can help prevent. I couldn't stomach putting a 30w oil in a diesel. Glad to hear you got her running again.

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For what it's worth, I accidentally added 2 quarts of 15/40 T6 with the gallon bottle of 5/40 T6 as the labels are similar and I simply didn't notice. It used almost no oil during the 7.5K mile interval, where it used about a quart before, most of that seemingly in my catch can. I have been going with this mix ever since. A bonus 15/40 is cheaper and easier to get than 5/40. The overall effect on viscosity of my "7.5w40" mix per oil analysis reports is negligible and the wear metals look excellent, coming in well below average. Been running this decidedly not Dexos 2 approved mix for a few years now, probably 25K miles and it is running great.

Running the same mix this latest oil change, but with 2 quarts of Mobil 1 Delvac Extreme 15/40 and 4 quarts of Mobil 1 5/40 diesel truck, as getting 5/40 T6 was near impossible for awhile there. It will be interesting to see if there is any difference in the next oil analysis report on the Mobil 1.

Been running Amsoil with Wix filter. Change once a year. Doesn't burn a drop. 30k mostly towing 6k camper.

Scarface said:

Been running Amsoil with Wix filter. Change once a year. Doesn't burn a drop. 30k mostly towing 6k camper.

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I hope you only drive 5k miles a year or less.

Cutterman said:

Sorry that was confusing the way I worded that. I ran the 5-30 for close to 50k then switched to T6. I ran T6 for the last 14k miles.

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You replaced the injectors with stock or the exergy ?
no need to add the injector codes to the ECU ?
Those top rod end bearing shells looked real bad. As if the fuel was firing well before TDC.
Or did you have the transmission tune and that was causing the engine to hold a taller gear ?
Any issues that needed a dealer or special tools ?

Rob

Coloradorob said:

You replaced the injectors with stock or the exergy ?
no need to add the injector codes to the ECU ?
Those top rod end bearing shells looked real bad. As if the fuel was firing well before TDC.
Or did you have the transmission tune and that was causing the engine to hold a taller gear ?
Any issues that needed a dealer or special tools ?

Rob

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Energy in post 38, was thinking the same thing.

Cutterman said:

Still trying to confirm correct Rod bearings. Local dealer was useless. There is a G on the Rod and the bearings have a green color to them so I’m thinking they are Green. Options are Blue Green or Red.

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Did you ever determine if it wasa green bearing?
I have a 2.8L torn apart, green bearings, green paint dots.
Haven't had much luck with the dealer determining what bearing I need

Coloradorob said:

You replaced the injectors with stock or the exergy ?
no need to add the injector codes to the ECU ?
Those top rod end bearing shells looked real bad. As if the fuel was firing well before TDC.
Or did you have the transmission tune and that was causing the engine to hold a taller gear ?
Any issues that needed a dealer or special tools ?

Rob

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I replaced with Exergy set to stock. You can order them with stock settings or greater fuel percentage if you want to open can of worms.
You don’t have to do anything to ECU if you order stock set injectors.
Talked to buddy who is GM master mech and he said it’s pretty common for the bearings to look that way. He told me to mic them. I miced them and they were good. I still replaced with new.
No special dealer tools needed except special tools for timing belt.

Dirtbiker said:

Did you ever determine if it wasa green bearing?
I have a 2.8L torn apart, green bearings, green paint dots.
Haven't had much luck with the dealer determining what bearing I need

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I replaced with green bearings. They mic’ed to same size as ones replaced. So far no issues with them. Sorry so late on response.

I’m not sure what difference is unless I’ve had issues since new. Just did first 7k oil change after rebuild. Oil looks extremely good as I can still see through it. It was always jet black before like normal diesel.

Cutterman said:

I replaced with green bearings. They mic’ed to same size as ones replaced. So far no issues with them. Sorry so late on response.

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Thanks for the reply
Took the winter off from the project. Lol
Ordered the rest of the parts I forgot the first order last week.
and I also Ordered the green one's
So I will measure also and put together.
Glad yours is working well.