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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings.

I decided to join to take the challenge of proving the Colorado can last a while. I’m originally from the northwest, where I drove a Nissan Titan for many years. They are pretty bullet proof under the hood. Finally traded her off at almost 140k miles with no engine issues, no transmission issues, no rear or front diff disasters, the only thing that went on her was my driver side window and passenger side wheel bearing . I beat the hell out of that truck but gave it good preventative maintenance. So I have been driving my 2016 Colorado I got used for a while. Right now she’s got a little over 34k. Cpo warranty but tbo doesn’t mean anything. Are car dealerships trust worthy? Most times no. I did most of the work on my old Titan.

So I’m excited about my Colorado. Here’s my thoughts, expectations and plans:

-at some point I will research a delete. I am in Texas so I’m not sure what my options could be and need to research the legality of it. I just know I do not like the concept of a def injector. It’s stupid; all in the name of clean running rigs.

-I used to have a 1980 Chevy luv. I regret not getting a diesel. The Colorado diesel is already hard to find sometimes. Mostly why I got it. I was surprised my 2wd Colorado gets between 31-34 mpg at 70-75.

-build quality first impressions are the body is a joke but most new rigs are. However I’m not much into cosmetics. From what I can gather, the rear end, drive shaft, are just fine on this truck. I’m suspicious of this transmission in tow use, but otherwise feel the 6l50 is fine. Part of my plan is to use my truck for light work and commuting. So far it seems to be paying off. My Bruce Jenner temp normally operates around 147 degrees on a hot day. Stuck in traffic jams for extended times I just put it in park. Keeps the torque converter tamed. My service plan is to change my filter and Jenner fluid every 45k.

-the 2.8 imo is solid. So far my plans are to consider soot at the same time I do the Jenner fluid. Clean the maf and egr. So far I kept up on my driving time and highway speeds. Zero problems with my dpf or def system. I do oil changes every 5k. I will note my trucks dic (lol) likes to be inconsistent with oil life. Maybe using my driving habits as a way to say what the oil life is. As recently it dipped to 87 percent with not even 1k on the new oil. Probably nothing. It’s not like it measures the physical properties of the oil. My fuel filters get changed every oil change just Incase I get poo poo diesel.

-turbo. Last thought is the turbo. I’m fascinated by the failures people have had. From researching recalls, National reports, I can’t find much that suggests a flaw. I will be leaving the engine bay stock to see what happens. Every start up, no matter how cold or warm, I let her sit and don’t go until the temp gauge moved. When I get home, I let the turbo sit for a minute. So far my turbo sounds normal and feels normal.

I will keep you all posted as this journey continues!
 

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Welcome, glad to have you and congratulations. I think your plan of changing the fluid every 45k miles is a good one. I am on a similar plan. I changed mine about that time along with the rear diff fluid with Amsoil products. I still need to do the front diff and transfer case if I can. I do know that I have heard that people say the trans gets abnormally (or so it would seem) hot on these trucks where people get worried. However, I believe others have said that the 6L50 is rated to get a little hotter? Not sure. I haven’t pulled a lot with mine to get where it worries me yet.

The sooner you delete your truck, the better off you will be. I believe you should be fine in Texas, but looking up your regulations first would always be a great idea :rolleyes: Your engine will last longer if you get rid or at least shut off the EGR. And you will get more mpg’s out of the truck if you do away with the DPF as it will quit using extra diesel fuel when it completes a regen. And the DEF fluid is just an added, pain in the butt cost :p I drove mine for 46k miles with no issues before deciding to delete it. I also change the fuel filters every 20k. Some people let it go to where the filter life reads 0%. If I did that, I would probably have to drive 40k. Maybe it would be alright, but I figure it’s cheap insurance to change them earlier so nothing gets through and damages the injectors.

Running a fuel additive, specifically a lubricant isn’t necessary per GM, as our truck was developed to run on ULSD fuel, but again, for insurance, I run Amsoil fuel additives. Currently running the All in One diesel fuel treatment because I need the anti-gel for winter here. However, next bottle I get will be their new product, the Injector Clean + Cetane Boost for lubrication and boosting the cetane number of the fuel. I have heard of a few trucks that had failed injectors, stock and tuned. Not sure if the fuel being properly lubricated was the issue or not, but again, insurance.

As for the turbo, you should be fine down there in Texas. If your truck came from out of state, you might check it yourself and see if the fins are bent. The reason that (the general consensus and GM may have admitted to this as well but not sure) the fins bend is from water vapor condensing, forming to ice, then when the truck is started up again, it breaks loose and then runs into the turbo fins :mad: With warmer temps down there most of the time, you should be fine though I would think.

It is also advised by many to use a catch can as oil vapor gets to places it shouldn’t go and makes it’s way to the intercooler and turbo. Other than the Mighty Mouse can, I believe any of the other brands are good choices. I have one that is still not installed but will be eventually.

Good luck with your truck :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Welcome, glad to have you and congratulations. I think your plan of changing the fluid every 45k miles is a good one. I am on a similar plan. I changed mine about that time along with the rear diff fluid with Amsoil products. I still need to do the front diff and transfer case if I can. I do know that I have heard that people say the trans gets abnormally (or so it would seem) hot on these trucks where people get worried. However, I believe others have said that the 6L50 is rated to get a little hotter? Not sure. I haven’t pulled a lot with mine to get where it worries me yet.

The sooner you delete your truck, the better off you will be. I believe you should be fine in Texas, but looking up your regulations first would always be a great idea :rolleyes: Your engine will last longer if you get rid or at least shut off the EGR. And you will get more mpg’s out of the truck if you do away with the DPF as it will quit using extra diesel fuel when it completes a regen. And the DEF fluid is just an added, pain in the butt cost :p I drove mine for 46k miles with no issues before deciding to delete it. I also change the fuel filters every 20k. Some people let it go to where the filter life reads 0%. If I did that, I would probably have to drive 40k. Maybe it would be alright, but I figure it’s cheap insurance to change them earlier so nothing gets through and damages the injectors.

Running a fuel additive, specifically a lubricant isn’t necessary per GM, as our truck was developed to run on ULSD fuel, but again, for insurance, I run Amsoil fuel additives. Currently running the All in One diesel fuel treatment because I need the anti-gel for winter here. However, next bottle I get will be their new product, the Injector Clean + Cetane Boost for lubrication and boosting the cetane number of the fuel. I have heard of a few trucks that had failed injectors, stock and tuned. Not sure if the fuel being properly lubricated was the issue or not, but again, insurance.

As for the turbo, you should be fine down there in Texas. If your truck came from out of state, you might check it yourself and see if the fins are bent. The reason that (the general consensus and GM may have admitted to this as well but not sure) the fins bend is from water vapor condensing, forming to ice, then when the truck is started up again, it breaks loose and then runs into the turbo fins :mad: With warmer temps down there most of the time, you should be fine though I would think.

It is also advised by many to use a catch can as oil vapor gets to places it shouldn’t go and makes it’s way to the intercooler and turbo. Other than the Mighty Mouse can, I believe any of the other brands are good choices. I have one that is still not installed but will be eventually.

Good luck with your truck :)
Thank you. A catch can has been in the back of my mind. I looked at the might mouse one and thought it was a bit pricey for something that has no guarantee on how much oil it will filter. On the flip side I know it will collect some.

She’s been a good truck but as stated I’m suspicious of the transmission. I wouldn’t mind looking at a larger transmission cooler. Yes though, at 40-45k the fluid and rear diff fluid will get done. I will say the only weird thing, and it’s small, is the turbo lag in third. Well seems like turbo lag. Definitely not a slip as I feel pull in any slight rpm change, but it’s definitely a weird turbo lag that’s ever barely noticeable. After shifting from second, it will kick down normal then as you accelerate the rpm will lag/pause maybe a second then finishing building rpm and the only read I knew it wasn’t a slip was simply feeling the pull of the truck match the rpm pull. So turbo lag is all I got out of that. I may end up paying for a better tune.

I will also say I do not expect high things from the electronics/wiring in the long haul. Lol. I look forward to seeing if I can’t keep it going as long as the Chevy luv was around for. Having to beat a cracked dash in order to get the tired wiper motor to work lol. Machining the alternator bracket to accept new production gm alternators with built in regulation. I miss her. She was a badge of honor lol.

I’ll be doing a delete ASAP. I worked a lot with later 90’s 7.3’s and when my employer at the time switched to def rigs I was like: this is stupid.
 
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