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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I'm towing a Hitch 16RD from Cruiser, 21.5 feet tip to stern... and not nearly as aerodynamic as it looks, mostly because our Colorado's are shorter in height and the 'bug line' is hitting below the start of the front curvature so I don't get the affects that may be associated with the curved front... I may experiment with a cap to see if that helps.

As for the tires, I'm mostly convinced to put on a set of BFG KO2 D-rated tires for the sidewall protection since I'll be on a lot of crushed rock this summer rather than gravel, the other option is to buy a couple of the OEM tires and throw them in the bed so I'd be traveling with 7 tires total...

For towing, I like the Andersen for several reasons. First because it works really well and it feels good. Second, it is supper easy to put on and off with little effort, you let your jack do all the work and simply push the pin in and lock it. Third, I prefer the methodology of how it works compared to the locking of the TV and TT together that most anti-sway hitches use. I think this is important as our TV is relatively light compared to most.

I purchased the Andersen when we purchased the new TT after having used a blue ox with the rounded bar for years. I had watched a guy back in his TT in a spot with it in a campground in Colorado and couldn't believe how much it allowed him to jackknife this setup all without making any noise... chatted with him and thought, gotta try it. The ability to back up without issue at any angle is probably my favorite feature.

In a cross-wind situation, you'll feel that initial hit if it's a gust but there is surprisingly very little movement on the TT. It has to do with opposing forces with a heavy dose of friction at the pivot point, as an engineer this was appealing to me verse me being 'locked' into the TT. The fact is a gust will push your TT, the only question is how's your hitch going to deal with it. Most anti-way hitches 'lock' the TV and TT looking for the lateral grip of the TV to do the work, so you feel a heavy push on your the rear of your truck. The Andersen uses friction to fight the lateral movement the TT is being hit with and using the forward force of the TV to straighten it out, so I never have that feeling like I'm being pushed around anymore than when I'm not towing.

Another great feature of the Andersen is the bounce dampening... with my old hitch bouncing was harsh, way less harsh with the Andersen, again due to the 'unlocked' nature of the hitch as well as the bounce dampeners it uses.

all that said, I traded in my 2020 CCSB V6 for a 2022 CCLB Dmax recently, took the TT out for a shake down of all the mods/upgrades I did on it this winter/spring and will tell you that the extra 12 inches of wheelbase is really nice for helping to stable the whole towing set-up, it was only a few hours of driving in each direction, but the wind was blowing.... the fact that I had to do a nationwide search and drive to Nebraska to get the truck is a whole other story...

Hope this information helps you make a decision on hitches, and if I do buy the KO2 tires I'll let you know whether or not I think it was the right move... I expect to do about 12,000 miles total on this 4 month outing and tires are my last point of question...
Thanks a lot for sharing your experience with the Andersen hitch. The difference you mention in eliminating the feeling of being pushed around and less bounce is enough to get me to seriously invest in trying that hitch. When I bought my truck I had looked all over the midwest for a long bed, but none to be found - it sounds like you have an awesome combination with your new truck. I'll likely also go with another set of tires this summer, but haven't yet decided what type.

Your outing to AK sounds like a trip of a lifetime!
 

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I also really liked the Andersen hitch, initially with our Flagstaff Shamrock 21SS (5,000LB ready to go, 660LB hitch weight) I ran a Fastway e2 WDH, which functioned well. The two issues I had were the placement of the bar brackets on the trailer were too far forward (issue with frame clearance) so on sharp turns the bars would wedge and push the brackets on the trailer out of place. The hitch head was also very heavy, which added to tongue weight and made for an unhappy back if I weren't careful when muscling it around. For those reasons I ended up replacing it with an Andersen that I was able to find used as a great price.

Installing the Andersen was super easy and tension adjustment is super easy to fine tune since it's just a matter of adjusting the nuts on the end of the chains. One of the common complaints with the Andersen is that people have been unable to get enough weight transfer back to the front and I think that has to do with how they're adjusting the tension and aren't able to get enough tension because they're trying to wrench on the nuts when the chains aren't slack.

The biggest change when hitching/unhitching is lining up the truck and trailer because the triangle/ball can be very hard to turn by hand. Generally speaking, you need to plan on hitching back up in the same position/angle as when you unhitched. If the hitch wasn't straight when unhitching then you'll need to position the truck at the same angle when re-hitching, otherwise it'll take some extra work to get everything reconnected.

The weight difference between a traditional WDH with bars and the Andersen is huge.

As for ride/handling/noise, the Andersen was totally silent (bar-based WDH can creak a bit at low speed), ride and handling was as good as I could expect.

Lastly, I want to talk about sway. There are a lot of people that swear by the Hensley Arrow or Pro Pride hitches (I'm sure a bit of that "these are amazing!" comments are trying to justify their insane cost), and WDH with decent built-in sway control do help, but do not expect a hitch to fix issues with poorly-matched tow vehicles and trailers. If your trailer is too big/long/heavy for the tow vehicle there is no fixing that short of getting a better trailer matched to the truck or getting a better tow vehicle. I've been there and done that. Also, axle placement under the trailer makes a HUGE difference in stability when towing, primarily the distance from the axle(s) to the rear of the trailer. The shorter the distance the more stable the trailer will be. The downside is that increases the distance between the axle(s) and hitch which will increase tongue weight. The trailer I mentioned above had the axles positioned a fair distance rear of center and it towed amazingly well in all conditions. We were traveling through Utah a few years ago with 25-30MPH crosswinds and I had no problems with sway or being pushed around. I was more worried that the trailer would blow over than I was about wind-induced sway.

So there's a lot at play when it comes to towing and what kind of experience you will have. Having a decent hitch helps, but it's not a silver bullet. Having a trailer well matched to the tow vehicle and with good axle placement under the trailer will have more of an impact than the hitch.
 
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I also find when I'm a little off target with the triangle I just attach one chain and draw the triangle into the proper position. Not really a big deal after you do it a few times. The key is evenly tensioning between each side to get the proper down force transfered to the front axles.
 

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The angle issue does exist, but as long as you're reasonably close the pin will tap in... I'm assuming that after the initial set up you guys are using the jack to lift the back of the truck to slacken the chains, pull the pin and drop the ring from the from the bottom of the hitch... than reverse the process to reconnect it all... lifting a bit higher gets you more slack and easier to reset the pin when hitching up again as the ring will turn more...
 

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The angle issue does exist, but as long as you're reasonably close the pin will tap in... I'm assuming that after the initial set up you guys are using the jack to lift the back of the truck to slacken the chains, pull the pin and drop the ring from the from the bottom of the hitch... than reverse the process to reconnect it all... lifting a bit higher gets you more slack and easier to reset the pin when hitching up again as the ring will turn more...
No I don't use the jack for that, never have. I just loosen the chains pull the pin and go that route. I don't really worry at all about the triangle I just make the thread lengths even on the chains and off we go.

Because of some of the sites trees I just had to attach at an angle due to the placement of the trees but not a problem whatsoever.
 

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Check out my thread "Pulling new Trailer and providing comments on performance". Myself and others commentary as well. I also include my specs etc. I don't have all answers which is why I like this forum.
 

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First time posting - hoping to get advice from those who tow travel trailers and have changed from the OEM SL load tires up to an LT tire (Load range C, D, or E?) and what tire you went with? Did the LT tires make a BIG difference in your towing experience? my specs and all the details on my towing troubles I’ve gathered below. thank you for sharing your experience.


My situation is towing a 5,000 lb (fully loaded down) camper (24 ft coupler to rear bumper, dual axle, tires fully aired up – it is not aerodynamic at all, basically a square box, no rounded corners) with the 2018 Duramax crew cab short bed with max towing pkg (purchased May ’21), using Blue Ox WDH with 750lb trunnion bars. The towing experience is poor - the truck wants to move and buck around a lot on the road, gets very bouncy at times, and is white knuckle in 15-25 mph head or crosswinds at highway speeds. Roads are mostly flat to gently rolling. I feel like I'm trying to tame a wild horse at times (actually did that in my younger years). It's not really so much trailer sway, as just feel like the truck erratically wanders and bucks all over the place. Semis passing do pull me over pretty easily too.

I weighed at a CAT scale after first camping trip to get fully loaded truck and fully loaded camper weights:

Truck without camper (Hitch and sway bars placed in rear of truck bed):
Steer Axle: 2940
Drive Axle: 2340
Trailer Axle: 00
Gross Total: 5280

Truck with fully loaded camper and WDH hooked up:
Steer Axle: 2880
Drive Axle: 2860
Trailer Axle: 4360
GrossTotal: 10,100

Based on those weights estimating tongue weight at 460lbs. (scale was busy, so I couldn’t just unhitch while on the scale).

Since the initial weighing, I've attempted to increase the tongue weight to get closer to 12% (added additional +65lb battery to hitch area, added water to the tank that is close to front of trailer 10 gal, so +85lbs). CAT scale is far away from me, but estimate I now have tongue wt closer to a 11-12% range now, but has not made any difference in the towing experience. With the Blue Ox WDH the truck and camper ride level, and trailer nose may even be very slightly down.

Have aired up the OEM Goodyear Wrangler Kevlar SL tires (255/65 R17) to 46 psi for towing for the most recent trip, but that did not do anything to help with the moving around on the road during towing, especially with winds over 10 mph. I have to keep both hands firmly on the steering wheel to keep it from wandering/wiggling all over the place.

I've tried tweaking the WDH setup (lowering, raising, more or less chain links) but it doesn't make much difference. Wondering now if tires swapped to an LT will make enough difference?
I have a 2019 diesel, I tow a 25' travel trailer. I had to angle to hitch head more to get more tension on the bars, this improved towing, put more weight on the steering and reduced overall issues. I've still been doing some tweaking to the hitch this past year to dial it in. The trailer is close to 7000lb when fully loaded.
Plant Plant community Motor vehicle Tree Land lot
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I have a 2019 diesel, I tow a 25' travel trailer. I had to angle to hitch head more to get more tension on the bars, this improved towing, put more weight on the steering and reduced overall issues. I've still been doing some tweaking to the hitch this past year to dial it in. The trailer is close to 7000lb when fully loaded. View attachment 9662
Workinonit: thanks for your reply on this - I can't tell from your photo if you have a blue ox sway pro system? By angling the hitch head, did you raise or lower the ball height on the hitch to get more tension on the bars and throwing more weight toward your steering axle? This is exactly what I would like to achieve, but I've been getting the trailer and hitch level - per the blue ox instructions - once it's hitched up, and then have used 10 links instead of 9 to get a bit more tension, but that's still not enough to stabilize the camper at highway speeds with even a little bit of cross wind.
 

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I have a 2019 diesel, I tow a 25' travel trailer. I had to angle to hitch head more to get more tension on the bars, this improved towing, put more weight on the steering and reduced overall issues. I've still been doing some tweaking to the hitch this past year to dial it in. The trailer is close to 7000lb when fully loaded. View attachment 9662
7,000 lbs loaded trailer is more than I would want to pull for the simple fact our GCVWR is 12k. I would go to a truck stop and weigh your rig and trailer hitched up. Example, my camper weighs 3,900 lbs dry. I loaded it up and with the wife and I we came in at 10,600lbs. Comfortably under 12k. Not trying to be that guy, I hope you, and sure you are comfortable pulling. Just saying you should go weigh at a truck stop. If you come in at 14k, I would be getting a bigger truck. God forbid you get in accident if you are overweight the cards are stacked against you with the law. But 💯 the best mid size for pulling. I got caught up in tow rating before I joined this site. I was locked in on a 32ft sportsmen. I did not like the feedback I got from some of the folks on forum. But I am very greatfull I listened which is why I like this site. Have fun and be safe.
 
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