I purchased a 2016 Chevrolet Colorado Z71 4x4 with the Duramax Diesel. On the way home from the dealership I hit a bump and the door locks started going up and down it shifted down and the check engine light came on. They reset the code and it still has the issue when you hit a small bump. They they replaced the computer and still is having the same issue. I purchased on 5/26 and only had the vehicle of 1 1/2 days...does anyone else having the same issue?
Electrical Issues?
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Gsimm1962,
I apologize for the electrical concerns you are experiencing in your new Colorado, but am glad to see that the dealership is actively working with you towards a resolution. If you would like any assistance while working with your dealer, please feel free to send me a private message.
All the best,
Julianne M.
GM Customer Care
I apologize for the electrical concerns you are experiencing in your new Colorado, but am glad to see that the dealership is actively working with you towards a resolution. If you would like any assistance while working with your dealer, please feel free to send me a private message.
All the best,
Julianne M.
GM Customer Care
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I have not had any crazy things like that happen. That is unfortunit.
I have noticed that when teh 4-ways are on my dome like dims when the blink.
Also, at around 800 miles I had a day where the truck was reporting me instant MPG at 15-25 MPG less than normal.
I have noticed that when teh 4-ways are on my dome like dims when the blink.
Also, at around 800 miles I had a day where the truck was reporting me instant MPG at 15-25 MPG less than normal.
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38 Posts
2000 miles on mine .....check engine went on ....faulty clutch fan sensor......they will be changing on monday...sounds like the fan is a jet
I, Know this Post is old, but Just some FYI to pass on about Chevy/GMC electrical issues. I have owned a number of Chevrolet Trucks from the Suburban, Silverado's, Avalanche, and the inline 5 Colorado. I'm also looking at a 2016 Duramax Colorado but doing much research prior to purchase.. This may help with those of you experiencing odd or intermittent electrical issues with dimming interior light, too include the infamous burnt out parking light or day time running light, and blower motor connection melting etc.. Which these problems spanned from my Silverado, Avalanche and Colorado and always turned out to be terrible grounding points.... Anyway simply put; check all the negative post connection points under the hood on the fenders and inner and outer firewalls. These posts host several negative lugs or terminals and they use a flat plate that bites the metal when the bolt is tightened. The problem is these are normally added after the chassis and body are painted and make a good enough connection thru the paint and primer, only to pass a quick quality inspection in the plant. As the vehicles sit on the lots and are driven in the weather a bit, the connection corrodes on the small areas of contact and build up resistance or may cause intermittent connections. Solution: Remove the negative posts and thoroughly remove the paint down to the metal surrounding the bite plate and or post or replace with a new one if badly corroded. Thoroughly clean all terminal lugs to the post or replace the lugs if needed. use light dielectric grease between the exposed body metal and the post plate or washer, and re tighten all the lugs back into place. Use liquid tape to seal the whole post and terminal lugs to include any exposed wires on the lugs. I forgot to mention, that if any of the negative wires are hardened from over heating resistance or corroded as well, consider replacing the whole wire, or at least cut it back 6 to 12 inches, to a softer or non corroded point, and re-splice with an environmental splice. I have found that by finding all my chassis or body panel negative posts and cleaning or repairing them, it has solved "intermittent or high resistive electrical problems. Hope this helps.
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My last problem was a connection at the starter....Excellent support at the GMC...Dealer....The only other item I would look at is engine block heater....It's a option and heated mirrors is a option....How could I by a 42000 diesel truck and have a rear defogger and heated seats.....And no heated mirrors and engine block heater....
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I've already blown a fuse for my trailer lights, replaced that fuse so the lights come on but no blinker, brake or hazard lights on the trailer just running lights.......none of the other fuses related to the trailer are blown or appear blown so I wonder if the relay for the trailer lights is bad?
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Hmm I noticed that too, pulled a trailer last month and could only get the running lights working on it and figured it was the trailer wiring over the an issue with the truck. Could be something to look into.
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Buy a tester plug at the auto parts store....It will show what's the problem...Good to leave in the truck to test your connections down the road
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117 Posts
I have never heard of one of those.........
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Just roll the interior light knob, to the left of the headlight knob, all the way up and the dome light comes on or just push the switch beside each light.
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Are you talking about the cargo light? Or the interior dome light?
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I'm stupid, it's the switch by the light itself. Push the right side and the interior lights come on, set it to the middle and they come on when doors are opened and push the left side and the lights will not come on when the doors are opened. The switch is between the map reading light switches.
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the interior dome light
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Uhg that is going to kill me if that was the answer the whole time.
I have to look again i only thought that was the door control...that is a weird place to put it though, i think.
the dimmer control seem way more standard.
haha GM just trying to break the mold and set newer standards
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