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Heard it from another that two new Duramax 3.0's have blown up in our area with less than 300 miles. Overheating supposedly. Not sure how that can happen without some royal screw up, but I have to treat it as rumor till I hear otherwise. This friend of mine loves to shoot the bull at dealerships and makes a great mark for salesman, as he tends to trade often, trouble is I have no idea who told him and no way to confirm. Or maybe he just misinterpreted? Also, If this is in the wrong forum, feel free to move it.
 

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It would not be hard to imagine some niggly problems, as the 3.0 uses a lot of sophisticated and new tech, and it is a newly released design. Time will tell in the end - I do hope it all works out well.

If I had a 3.0, I would change the oil as soon as I get home from the dealership and putting 5/40 Dexos 2 (to keep the warranty) in. No way I am running 0/20 weight oil in a diesel.
 

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Heard it from another that two new Duramax 3.0's have blown up in our area with less than 300 miles. Overheating supposedly. Not sure how that can happen without some royal screw up, but I have to treat it as rumor till I hear otherwise. This friend of mine loves to shoot the bull at dealerships and makes a great mark for salesman, as he tends to trade often, trouble is I have no idea who told him and no way to confirm. Or maybe he just misinterpreted? Also, If this is in the wrong forum, feel free to move it.
There is a guy on YouTube that said his blew up.....
But it didn’t blow up, it did over heat.
It looks like there was an issue with the valve that directs water to individual areas of the motor.

For those that don’t know...... the new 3.0 has a valve that can direct coolant to multiple areas of the motor.
This is controlled by the ECU.
Also the truck runs hot when not towing (210) But put it to work towing and the ECU lowers the overall temp of the motor.
This coolant redirect valve give the advantages of faster warmups. Giving overall better fuel milage.

It looks like GM may have some failures of this valve..............
makes me wonder how long the belt that drives the variable oil pump will last as it is running in the motor oil..
This oil pump runs a fairly low oil pressure when the truck is running unladen.
But while towing the oil pressure runs higher.

Does everyone notice both the 3.0 inline six and the Dodge Eco diesel gets better milage than our trucks .
Even though they are full size trucks and are heavier they are getting better milage................

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Am I mistaken that our 2.8 also has "selective cooling" not sure what to call it.
 

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No we don’t have it. and we don’t have a variable oil pump. These are cool ideas that helps the 3.0 get as good or better mpg then our trucks. But very spooky when you consider adding more failure points to an already difficult to diagnose diesel with parts and sensors supplied by the lowest bidder....

The VM Motori design 2.8 was very basic. GM made some changes to supposedly harden it for use in North America. The only compromise is all the pollution crap.
The weak link to our motor is all the cheap sensors running at the extreme top end of there tolerance for heat.......

This is why it would be nice to have every spec of information on this site when it comes to sensors and what error code they threw.
This way when someone has an issue they could log in here and go to the code thread and see what sensor is need to be replace to fix the problem.....

We would not be hostages to lack lustre dealer service people...... the biggest weak link to owning any vehicle.......

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm happy that the 2.8 had a decent history before being adopted for the current platform.
 

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My 2.8's "variable heat control valve" on cold mornings is me cranking the heated seats and leaving the heater off until the engine reaches operating temp. ? The engine heats up reasonably fast. I just get in and drive it on cold mornings, taking it easy, not revving it over 2K. Diesel's left idling do not heat up quickly - I think it is better to just get in and drive it.

The 2.8 had a good history in older trucks, lots of Holdens running around Australia with high mileage on them. I researched that and it was a big factor in choosing the diesel. The thing is, GM took over from VM and apparently F'd it up by assembling it in Thailand, putting a slightly smaller turbo on it, cranking up a ton of EGR, and worst of all, using Mahle pistons (instead of the older engine's Federal Mogul) that randomly fail w/o warning now and then. On the plus side, our engines have a redesigned freer flowing head, and the pendulum absorber between the engine and trans smooths things out nicely and does not seem to cause any issues, and the 6L50 transmission has been around for a long time and it is proven.

So far so good. To date my Canyon has been awesome. Have done everything I can to ensure it's longevity (EGR off tune, T6 oil, catch can, lubricity additive for the fuel, early fuel filter changes/anal about where I buy fuel). Have done all I can, short of putting in the older engine's FM pistons, to make sure this engine lives a long time. Am even kinda contemplating the pistons...
 

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That’s for sure they don’t warm up very well idling.
I start mine just before I go out to get in.
I do the same as you. Drive easy till it warms up.
I notice the transmission never warms up in cold temperatures.

I just changed the oil at 4K miles.
Wow it was thick and gritty
You could have used it for black paint. Hard as hell to get off my hands and I spilled a bit on the floor putting the old oil in the empty oil bottles.
That was 10 times harder to clean up than dirty oil from a gas engine. That soot is nasty stuff. It can’t be good for the motor.
I will never let this go till the dic says to change it.
4K miles was 48% remaining.
 

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That’s for sure they don’t warm up very well idling.
I start mine just before I go out to get in.
I do the same as you. Drive easy till it warms up.
I notice the transmission never warms up in cold temperatures.

I just changed the oil at 4K miles.
Wow it was thick and gritty
You could have used it for black paint. Hard as hell to get off my hands and I spilled a bit on the floor putting the old oil in the empty oil bottles.
That was 10 times harder to clean up than dirty oil from a gas engine. That soot is nasty stuff. It can’t be good for the motor.
I will never let this go till the dic says to change it.
4K miles was 48% remaining.
EGR's effect on the oil is pretty remarkable. Deleted trucks or ones like mine with an EGR off emissions intact tune do not blacken their oil at all. Agree 100%, I would change the oil at 5K intervals, that is what I did before tuning it. Now I do go 7.5K, oil analysis says the oil has plenty of life left and they suggested going longer, but I stick to 7.5K.

Diesel oil is designed to handle the soot, but my take is that GM runs a lot of EGR in our engines so they do not have to use a lot of DEF to meet emissions. Changing the oil a little early can't hurt, and if you do it yourself, it is not that expensive.
 

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EGR's effect on the oil is pretty remarkable. Deleted trucks or ones like mine with an EGR off emissions intact tune do not blacken their oil at all. Agree 100%, I would change the oil at 5K intervals, that is what I did before tuning it. Now I do go 7.5K, oil analysis says the oil has plenty of life left and they suggested going longer, but I stick to 7.5K.

Diesel oil is designed to handle the soot, but my take is that GM runs a lot of EGR in our engines so they do not have to use a lot of DEF to meet emissions. Changing the oil a little early can't hurt, and if you do it yourself, it is not that expensive.
I am seriously considering a piston swap myself. I have been thinking if it would be doable in the truck.
 

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I have a prejudgment against aluminum diesels with nothing to back it up. Except for 6 figure aero engine replacements that are made to missionary planes that work in Africa (no Avgas easily available), they're not part of God's wonderful plan. But the overheating complaint channels similar, nearly 50 years ago, with alum block Chevy Vega's.
 

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I have a prejudgment against aluminum diesels with nothing to back it up. Except for 6 figure aero engine replacements that are made to missionary planes that work in Africa (no Avgas easily available), they're not part of God's wonderful plan. But the overheating complaint channels similar, nearly 50 years ago, with alum block Chevy Vega's.
The Vega used an aluminum block with no sleeves. So the rings scuffed up the cyl bore.
Low milage oil burning was the outcome....
The Japanese coat there aluminum cyl to give them a very reliable hard surface. Japanese motorcycle engines are extremely reliable. Each manufacturer has there own process.

when aluminum heads were first popular there was nothing but head gasket failures and if that didn’t get you an aluminum head that was cracked would.......

An aluminum head on a iron block was a nightmare in the past. Dissimilar metals expanding and contracting at different rates.

I have read were steel sleeves in an aluminum block has been problematic in the past. Dissimilar metal expansion issues.
Time will tell if the 3.0 litre with its aluminum head and block with iron sleeves can survive as a diesel running very high temperatures With very thin oil.
And a selective cooling system that can be a failure point.......
 

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My Jap bikes were all bullet proof. My 2.8 seems solid. This 3.0 seems to have some interesting engineering solutions to problems none of us asked to fixed. IMHO it has "Designed by EPA- Built by GM using the best parts from the lowest bidders possible" written all over it.
 

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The Vega used an aluminum block with no sleeves. So the rings scuffed up the cyl bore.
Low milage oil burning was the outcome....
The Japanese coat there aluminum cyl to give them a very reliable hard surface. Japanese motorcycle engines are extremely reliable. Each manufacturer has there own process.

when aluminum heads were first popular there was nothing but head gasket failures and if that didn’t get you an aluminum head that was cracked would.......

An aluminum head on a iron block was a nightmare in the past. Dissimilar metals expanding and contracting at different rates.

I have read were steel sleeves in an aluminum block has been problematic in the past. Dissimilar metal expansion issues.
Time will tell if the 3.0 litre with its aluminum head and block with iron sleeves can survive as a diesel running very high temperatures With very thin oil.
And a selective cooling system that can be a failure point.......

Good refresher, and I hope the concept succeeds. But as of now, I'm in sync with oak1971.

Bigger pic, why do people buy pick ups, if they want them to perform like cars? We have ONLY owned pickups when we wanted them for towing or hauling. We were willing to pay more for fuel, to have a long lasting, high performing, durable, vehicle. Now, they're tarted up driveway trophies that get driven to the office and Trader Joe's.....
 

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Good refresher, and I hope the concept succeeds. But as of now, I'm in sync with oak1971.

Bigger pic, why do people buy pick ups, if they want them to perform like cars? We have ONLY owned pickups when we wanted them for towing or hauling. We were willing to pay more for fuel, to have a long lasting, high performing, durable, vehicle. Now, they're tarted up driveway trophies that get driven to the office and Trader Joe's.....
Full disclosure, I bought my heated leather seat Bose stereo farkle encrusted Canyon as I want a tarted up driveway trophy I can tow with ?
 

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Full disclosure, I bought my heated leather seat Bose stereo farkle encrusted Canyon as I want a tarted up driveway trophy I can tow with ?

No problem with both show and go. I paid another $400 for the paint I wanted. But half of my ~40K miles has been towing at 80-85% of GCVWR, with next to no problems. That is not the case with the folks I'm shining on...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I don't tow or haul much anymore. My principle reason for truck ownership of late is durability. At least in my area, the streets in local municipalities are in horrid condition. Trucks can take abuse that would have passenger cars and even crossovers rolling down the road on a flatbed and on the way to the repair shop. I don't beat on my trucks, but every so often the road does. My secondary reason is four wheel drive and the auto mode. Around here, as a cost saving measure, the side streets are plowed about 1-2" from the ground to save on wear bars for the blade. Also, in general terms, plowing is sketchy at best even on the interstate. Very sad.
 

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Continuing my rather long old man rant: Making a truck that is less reliable and less durable in exchange for "features" that only an EPA egg head would find in any way useful, is one sure way for me NOT to buy your product.
 

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when VW released the 2015 TDI EA288 engine it used some of the features seen on this new 3.0 Duramax, including the variable speed water pump. combined DPF/SCR, and VVT. The water pump is problematic and owners are able to replace with a standard unit and sacrifice 0.01% fuel economy in doing so. There may be an afterarket solution to many of these issues including a chain drive kit for the oil pump if they become problematic.

I do prefer the more simplistic design of our 2.8, however I wish it did have electric cooling fans and active shutters. Other than that the 2.8 is more "truck" than the 3.0 is.
 
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