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OK, I really want to change out the running lights, high beams, fog lights, and all other lighting with LED but want to capitalize on any experiences anyone else has had to avoid the cost of paying tuition to the School of Hard Knocks, so here are the questions

- CanBus: The Interweb states that GM uses CanBus wiring and an capacitor/resistor may be required for anti-flickering and error code issues - has anyone experienced that yet?.

- LED lighting: has anyone had fitting issues with the bulbs that have fans on the back? What about the fanless style?

- Beam focus: Some LED lights don't really project 360 degree light and the light distribution is inconsistent - has anybody tried the ones that claim they have 4-sided / 360 degree lighting?

Thanks in advance :)
 

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Check with Vleds or theretrofitsource about the headlights.

I'm not sure about can bus. but, I have used the vleds triton led switchback bulb in the past and it is adjustable for rotation and depth to make sure the output/pattern works with your housing.
 

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I'm new here, in my introduction post I mentioned having LED high and low beams and had a couple people ask for more info. I replied there with all this but then realized it made more sense to put this here.

I also bought the Hikari LED lights off Amazon. I went specifically looking for lights with the XPH50 bulbs since my research led me to believe they're the best of the breed. These had the best review ratings of the bunch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LCE19OI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LCE1AY2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also bought two sets of these to replace the dust caps since the LED lights have fans for cooling them and I was leery of having them closed up within the headlight housings.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRXH5LO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These worked perfectly for the low beams but not the highs as it turns out the Canyon high beam bulb is not centered on the opening for the dust cap. I ended up tucking the LED driver inside the housing for the high beam and put the stock dust cap back on. I figure the highs don't get used that much so it should be fine having everything inside. It actually looks to me like the stock dust caps would fit on the low beams with no problem. We had some snow last Friday and my headlight housings iced over, I'm wondering if it'd be a good idea to put the stock caps on in the wintertime in order to let that warm air circulate and maybe keep the ice from building up.

As you can see by the pics, the LED bulbs produce a much more filled in pattern. I haven't had any chance yet for actual night time driving on real dark roads so I don't have any pics on the road yet. The little bit that I've driven at night has been in the city where there's lots of light pollution so it's kind of hard to tell exactly how well they're working. LED bulbs get knocked for not throwing the light out in the distance. I can tell these do throw as well as the stock but they fill in so well close in that by comparison the distance looks dim.

The connector for the low beam bulbs have an extra small tab on on side that needs to be trimmed off. That's my thumb at the bottom, holding the connector up for the shot:


Drivers side LED, passenger side halogen Low Beam. I should have moved all that stuff at the front of my garage but you can tell by comparing these two shots how much better the fill pattern is:


Both LED Low Beams:


Driver side LED, passenger side halogen High Beam:


Both LED High Beam:
 

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Actually someone already did an install of Putco LED.


They are too expensive for me. Supernova V.3 are similar and are rated second best. They might be the best fit.
 

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So LEDs don't work very well with projection headlights. The technology isn't there just yet. Maybe in 5 more years. HID or upgrading to Sylvania Silverstar Ultra for the lows are our only option. I'm going with the Silverstar Ultra. My F150 had those and they worked very well.
 

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So I tried LEDs in the lows to see for myself. They suck...bad. The projectors distort the beam pretty bad. Now have Kensun 6000k 35w HIDs in the lows and they are almost 3x better than stock halogens and 5x better than LEDs for lows.

With the non HID version of the Gen5DYI relocation harness, the HIDs work very well. No blinking or anything with the exception of when you crank the engine to start the truck at night with the auto lights on. My HID version of the relocation will be here tomorrow. I'll see if that fixes that.

Note you have to remove/dermal one of the locking tabs on the HID harness plug where it clicks into the factory headlight bulb plug. Closest one to the end of the plug. It will not plug all the way in or lock in place unless you do this.

High beams I run Hikari LEDs. You can reuse the dust cover with these. They work very well with the reflexor high beam housing. Very happy with them. Were a little bit of a pain to install. The O-ring on them seems to be slightly thicker. Had to wiggle it and push hard into the housing before I could turn on and lock it in place.

LED fog lights, LED switchback turn signals, LED tail lights, 3rd brake light, cargo lights, back up lights and license plate lights I also have installed. Huge improvements with all of those.
 

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I take back the starting to truck comment with auto on lights and HIDs. It’s the switch backs/turn signals that flash/blink when you start the truck lol
 

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So I tried LEDs in the lows to see for myself. They suck...bad. The projectors distort the beam pretty bad. Now have Kensun 6000k 35w HIDs in the lows and they are almost 3x better than stock halogens and 5x better than LEDs for lows.

With the non HID version of the Gen5DYI relocation harness, the HIDs work very well. No blinking or anything with the exception of when you crank the engine to start the truck at night with the auto lights on. My HID version of the relocation will be here tomorrow. I'll see if that fixes that.

Note you have to remove/dermal one of the locking tabs on the HID harness plug where it clicks into the factory headlight bulb plug. Closest one to the end of the plug. It will not plug all the way in or lock in place unless you do this.

High beams I run Hikari LEDs. You can reuse the dust cover with these. They work very well with the reflexor high beam housing. Very happy with them. Were a little bit of a pain to install. The O-ring on them seems to be slightly thicker. Had to wiggle it and push hard into the housing before I could turn on and lock it in place.

LED fog lights, LED switchback turn signals, LED tail lights, 3rd brake light, cargo lights, back up lights and license plate lights I also have installed. Huge improvements with all of those.
I didn't see who posted it but I also got the HIkari Low and High beam bulbs with the fan. It all tucks into the original dustcap easily and has worked flawlessly and they are relatively cheap on Amazon (LED fog lights were different brand w/o a fan but no issues $19.95 amazon). So altogether 1 have about $160 into all LED's when I had over $300 in a previous truck for low beams only for HID's...
 

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OK, I really want to change out the running lights, high beams, fog lights, and all other lighting with LED but want to capitalize on any experiences anyone else has had to avoid the cost of paying tuition to the School of Hard Knocks, so here are the questions

- CanBus: The Interweb states that GM uses CanBus wiring and an capacitor/resistor may be required for anti-flickering and error code issues - has anyone experienced that yet?.

- LED lighting: has anyone had fitting issues with the bulbs that have fans on the back? What about the fanless style?

- Beam focus: Some LED lights don't really project 360 degree light and the light distribution is inconsistent - has anybody tried the ones that claim they have 4-sided / 360 degree lighting?

Thanks in advance :)
 

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I have the lightening dark LEDs for both low and high beam. Beam pattern is fantastic and LED is positioned exactly like stock halogens. They are available on Amazon.
 
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