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Discussion Starter #61
I have a catch can on my Power Wagon and collect a LOT of oil and unburned fuel as well as water.
The problem I have with that truck is the catch can contents freeze solid all winter.
Not too wild about trying a plastic catch can that may split in the cold due to freezing.
Racor is metal and they also sell a heating element for it. Or, you could route the drain hose into a smaller can down below so the catch can stays unobstructed. If your catch can froze and became obstructed then you could push your rear main seal out (reports of this on the other forum) the provent for sure has a bypass if it became blocked, the racor tells you if it’s blocked but I’m not 100% sure it auto bypasses
 

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I have an update on my MM.

I emptied it yesterday at about 3500 miles and it was half full.....of water...no oil, just water -.-. I suspect the breather at the top has let water into the can in wet driving conditions which honestly hasn’t been that many times driving in the rain. Needless to say it’s coming off and I’m probably going to get in on the BMS catch can deal for $120 since they do work.

How has the racor been working and did you set it up to drain oil back to the oil pan?
 

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Discussion Starter #64
I have an update on my MM.

I emptied it yesterday at about 3500 miles and it was half full.....of water...no oil, just water -.-. I suspect the breather at the top has let water into the can in wet driving conditions which honestly hasn’t been that many times driving in the rain. Needless to say it’s coming off and I’m probably going to get in on the BMS catch can deal for $120 since they do work.

How has the racor been working and did you set it up to drain oil back to the oil pan?
The water is condensation. That’s normal for a catch can. The bms doesn’t look any different than the mm to me. Only the provent or the racor have filter media that I know of (and balled up Brillo pads don’t count). The racor is about twice the size of the provent but it works. Mine has a long drain hose and it is zip tied to the bottom of the frame rail and plugged. I pull the plug to drain it occasionally. Only water came out of the plug, all the oil was caught in the media.
 

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Some condensation is expected aye, but it’s definitely getting rain water in it. I drove in the rain the other day and took out a table spoon of water last night. I don’t see that much water condensation in two days time.

I got the BMS yesterday, haven’t put it on yet (my sciatic nerve is acting up...fml). It’s a double baffle design, very different than the MM iirc. It should work a lot better. I’ll post up thoughts once I get it installed and tested.

I’m not a fan of element catch cans. Had one on our CAT D5. It stopped up and pushed the deals out. According to Wanye Supply (KY cat dealer) you have to service them once or two a week and replace the element every 100-150 hours to keep it efficient. So we removed it and vent to atmosphere like the older equipment. Might e different for our trucks, but don’t want to take the risk after a first hand experience
 

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Installed my BMS CC today and will post thoughts in a new thread at a later date. However an observation was made that I feel should apply to all CC.

When I removed the MM, the hose coming from the top of the engine that leads to the inlet of the MM had a somewhat slugged oil pooled in the low spot of the hose. I would strongly recommended that anyone that has a CC rework their inlet hose to where it is level with both the CC inlet and motor outlet. If possible it would be better to have the CC lower than the outlet on the top of the engine to let gravity help clear out any oil. Might save some headache and engine seals later on.
 

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The water is condensation. That’s normal for a catch can. The bms doesn’t look any different than the mm to me. Only the provent or the racor have filter media that I know of (and balled up Brillo pads don’t count). The racor is about twice the size of the provent but it works. Mine has a long drain hose and it is zip tied to the bottom of the frame rail and plugged. I pull the plug to drain it occasionally. Only water came out of the plug, all the oil was caught in the media.
I think the media makes the vapor separation more efficient. We have vacuum pumps at my work that have oil separators on the discharge side and they all have a synthetic media, similar to the provent and racor. I think the media causes a pressure drop across the surface which allows the vapor to drop out for collection.
 

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Installed my BMS CC today and will post thoughts in a new thread at a later date. However an observation was made that I feel should apply to all CC.

When I removed the MM, the hose coming from the top of the engine that leads to the inlet of the MM had a somewhat slugged oil pooled in the low spot of the hose. I would strongly recommended that anyone that has a CC rework their inlet hose to where it is level with both the CC inlet and motor outlet. If possible it would be better to have the CC lower than the outlet on the top of the engine to let gravity help clear out any oil. Might save some headache and engine seals later on.
What did you think of your BMS can, Pergrem?

Also, what do you guys think of the Racor, Provent and Mighty Mouse cans? Thinking of getting one after hearing of a few people having problems with their turbos needing replaced due to condensation freezing and then going into the turbo :( I believe mine is ok for now, but I thought I would do some preventative maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
What did you think of your BMS can, Pergrem?

Also, what do you guys think of the Racor, Provent and Mighty Mouse cans? Thinking of getting one after hearing of a few people having problems with their turbos needing replaced due to condensation freezing and then going into the turbo :( I believe mine is ok for now, but I thought I would do some preventative maintenance.
Skip the MM for sure it’s absolute junk. It’s basically a soda can with an s.o.s. pad stuffed in it. Bms just has a few baffles, I would be surprised if it did anything. Racor and provent have actual media in them. Provent is much smaller, wish I went with that one.
 

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I did check out your YouTube channel, but I didn't see an install video. Just a review on the can after install and after using it for a few thousand miles. I guess the install is just about the same though, no matter what can you use?

According to TLFlorida though, based on his comments on one of those 2 videos (don't remember which), you don't need a catch can, it's a marketing ploy....:):rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #76
I did check out your YouTube channel, but I didn't see an install video. Just a review on the can after install and after using it for a few thousand miles. I guess the install is just about the same though, no matter what can you use?

According to TLFlorida though, based on his comments on one of those 2 videos (don't remember which), you don't need a catch can, it's a marketing ploy....:):rolleyes:
My bad I didn’t remember how in depth I went but you basically find a place to mount it and then route hoses
 

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Found this and thought it was interesting. My step son I dont nedd it followed by a bunch of jargon I dont understand. but I will get one anyway.
 

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Have had the Provent 200 on my truck for 45K miles now, basically since the truck was new, it has done a great job, the intake hose is still dry.

The only things I don't like about the Provent are:

1) The 1" nipples that require a short 1" hose and a 1" to 3/4" reducer (no big deal really) and
2) The intake on the Provent is on the top, the outlet for clean air is on the bottom.

I would prefer the intake and outlet to be reversed as that would eliminate any possibility of ice falling into the turbo. You can reverse the hoses without affecting the filtering of the unit, but you lose the important function of the pressure relief valve in the cap. If a Provent freezes up, the simple pop off valve in the cap will vent and you will have a minor oily mess, but no pressurization of the crankcase.

It seems pretty unlikely that ice would make it to the turbo from the Provent, as it would have to negotiate a right angle turn and get past the lower pressure relief valve. I actually think turbo damage from ice is less likely with the catch can in place as it catches the water before it gets to the turbo. Anyway, per their instructions, the Provent can be run until oil is seen seeping out the cap, that indicates it is filter replacement time.

Here is a cool write up I found on catch cans. Too bad the Racor is not in there, would like to see how it fared, as the 4500 seems to be the highest quality catch can available. The problem with the Racor is they are expensive and a bit of brain damage to install as all the parts are sold separately.

 

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Have had the Provent 200 on my truck for 45K miles now, basically since the truck was new, it has done a great job, the intake hose is still dry.

The only things I don't like about the Provent are:

1) The 1" nipples that require a short 1" hose and a 1" to 3/4" reducer (no big deal really) and
2) The intake on the Provent is on the top, the outlet for clean air is on the bottom.

I would prefer the intake and outlet to be reversed as that would eliminate any possibility of ice falling into the turbo. You can reverse the hoses without affecting the filtering of the unit, but you lose the important function of the pressure relief valve in the cap. If a Provent freezes up, the simple pop off valve in the cap will vent and you will have a minor oily mess, but no pressurization of the crankcase.

It seems pretty unlikely that ice would make it to the turbo from the Provent, as it would have to negotiate a right angle turn and get past the lower pressure relief valve. I actually think turbo damage from ice is less likely with the catch can in place as it catches the water before it gets to the turbo. Anyway, per their instructions, the Provent can be run until oil is seen seeping out the cap, that indicates it is filter replacement time.

Here is a cool write up I found on catch cans. Too bad the Racor is not in there, would like to see how it fared, as the 4500 seems to be the highest quality catch can available. The problem with the Racor is they are expensive and a bit of brain damage to install as all the parts are sold separately.


1 question. I have looked on sasquatch parts and id parts and both say it wont fit my 2016 canyon. Did you get your own hose and clamp set up to install?
 

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I do recall seeing a photo of the Sasquatch kit on a twin, the mount was bright neon green. It had nice hoses though. Seems like a lot of coin to spend though. A lot of people simply go to Home Depot and get some "L" stock and bodge up a mount near the coolant overflow tank. The hose can be any 3/4" oil rated stuff, got mine at NAPA. If using the Provent, as I mentioned, you will need a short length of 1" ID hose for the nipples, and some reducers for the 3/4" hose.
 
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