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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, FNG here. Pretty excited about finding this site, actually. Looking to buy a Duramax 2.8L diesel, but I won't lie to you: leaning towards the Canyon. The problem I've been running into, mainly, is the sparsity of centralized information. Hunting through thread after thread, finding bits and pieces here and there that almost get me answers and then fall just short. The majority of the information falls under the HD lines, not the newer mid-size diesels. Found this site, and it's about the closest I've come to the right place (if not THE right place). By all means, tell me if I should be looking at the gasser instead. Definitely don't be afraid to break anything down Barney style, or draw it out for me in crayons. I'm capable with a wrench, worked on my motorcycles myself but by no means a mechanic, so you can explain things to me like I don't know what I'm talking about, won't take it personal. Here's where I'm at:

I want to buy either a Canyon or Colorado diesel. It's going to be my daily driver, but I'll need to find the sweet spot when it comes to the build because of a few things, listed here:

- I live in Kansas City, so the commute to work is fairly dense, mostly highway.
- I take a 1.7K mile trip once a year or more to go camping around Wyoming, Utah, Idaho, Nevada area in forest/desert/mountainous climates. Usually a running water source nearby, been crowded by a river in heavy rain before, but I don't rock crawl or go crazy off-trail in my vehicle.
- I'm all of my friends/family go-to for helping move and pick up furniture/appliances. Towed a trailer twice before to help move, but I don't own a trailer, and needing to tow is fairly rare for me.
- Gets fairly cold where I am, even colder where I go (Dakotas) every so often.

Build I'm needing these options, and looking for recommendations and/or corrections:

- Steel bumpers, front and rear. 'Need' might be a strong word, since I live in a fairly populated city, but my travels take me places. This was a big factor that helped me settle on diesel. I've never owned a diesel personally, but I've driven a couple here and there. A buddy that almost only ever buys diesel said that since I want steel bumpers, I'd taker a little less of a hit to fuel economy if I went diesel. Leaning heavy towards FabFour Premium with full guard. Possible winch upgrade later on.
- Armor under the cab (skid plates and stuff)
- Some sort of lift (reasonable rock clearance, and I'm told I'll need a minimum of 2" lift for the steel bumpers alone anyways. Thinking under 6", over 2" after bumpers.
- All Terrain or Light Terrain tires, told I'll probably need new rims anyways after lift ('something'centric. Hub-centric? Was unfamiliar with the term) I'm open to size and spec recommendations.
- Tune and upgrades likely (First thing the bikes get are better aftermarket air filters, exhaust, and a stage one kit. So I figure I should start with aftermarket exhaust (SB? K&N?), exhaust (Magnaflow?) and DuraMax Tuner tune or Green tune.
- Whatever I'm missing to make these work

Anyone with a similar build, let me know how these affected your handling and fuel economy, or if they reached deeper into your pockets in the long run with related failures of surrounding parts.

I greatly appreciate any insight, time, and efforts for any contributions to this post. I've tried parting experiences together, but it's difficult pulling from multiple vehicles/owners and Frankensteining them together in my head.
 

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The diesel will definitely be good for you traveling, with or without a trailer. Your wallet will thank you. I would agree with your friend, about the steel bumper's weight not affecting a diesel as much because you already get good fuel economy. Add a lift and bigger tires though, my guess is you would go form like 26-27 mpg stock (combined average) to like....20-22 mpg average.

For the cold air intake and exhaust: I don't know that I would go with an airbox. I just haven't heard a lot of gains from using them on our truck. I haven't tried one, so I can't say for sure, so hopefully someone else will chime in. I have heard the S&B cold air intake is very loud and noisy though (I was looking in to getting one but changed my mind). For the exhaust, if you don't do a full delete, a filter/ CAT back exhaust won't do you a bit of good performance or really even sound wise. If you do a full delete, aFe, Flo~Pro and MBRP make a turbo back and down-pipe back exhausts (with or without a muffler, your choice).

The exhaust thing leads into the tuning. If you did a full delete, you couldn't use Duramax Tuner. Not directly at least. You could get it from their Canadian counterpart, Motor Ops but I DO NOT ADVISE that. I have not heard any good things from people going with them. GDE (Green Diesel Engineering) is alright, but I am starting to question some of the issues I am hearing about issues with the truck and not wondering if it is coming from them. I would highly recommend the tuner I went with, hACKman Customs (Jason Hackler). Great customer service and his tune is great on fuel economy and makes the truck fun to drive :cool:
 

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Hi Timber Rock and the rest of the diesel people, I bought a 2016 year end model 4door long box diesel Canyon 4x4. I put a cold air intake box on my truck. I spent the money because that is what I wanted. I will say this, I get over 30 mpg with my Canyon driving to Florida and back from the Syracuse area of NYS. It is awesome in the snow. I am considering doing a full delete tune but have not decided as of yet. As for the cold air intake, it boosted the torgue to almost 400 ft lbs. and the hp to almost 200. The noise factor did increase, but not enough to bother me. (But of course at age 67 I am somewhat hard of hearing). I have been a mechanic since age 13. I enjoy my Canyon greatly. Plenty of room for me since I am single. This Friday my oldest grandson and I will be traveling to Florida. I expect my truck to perform as it always has. I drive 77 MPH all the way to Florida from upstate NY. This the best truck I have ever owned. I own a 6.6 duramax for snow plowing and towing. That one gets me 21 MPG on the highway and that truck has been to the West Coast and back twice. That is the second best truck I have ever owned. I will never go away from diesel again. As far as the other items like the steel bumpers, etc., etc., I have zero opinion for them.
 

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I drive a diesel. It is a 2017 canyon. The exhaust system is definitely issue prone. GMC customer service is more on prevent defense than helpful. That said, it comes down to your dealer and their diesel mechanics. All my area shops have told me their GMC/Chevy mechanics have little experience with the 2.8. So, I bought an android, the torque app, biscan app and a blue tooth OBDC. It gives me access to doing my one maintenance like the NOX sensors (35K and on number 4) as well as a regen. At issue is the high risk of limp mode. I have experienced that on 3 long hunt trips that cost me dearly. My truck gets 30 MPG highway and 26 in the city. I did not lift. I bought a brush guard, fender flares and a cover from real trucks (realtruck.com) and was great customer service and good prices. I change oil every 5k. SO if I was gonna advise a family member (I have) I would say, buy ford! GM does not want customers. The DEF design (no way to flush), Mechanic training is less than a common shade tree, the attitude of the executive office, and the price with low amenities. Yep Ford would be my next choice. when I am not upside down, this thing will be replaced with another make. I know diesels, and the fact that GM isolates you is troubling. If it must be a diesel, check the dealers, identify other diesel owners and find one with trained mechanics. By the way, my experience is with 5 GMC dealers, all say the same thing, good diesel mechanics are hard to find. Every trip for warranty service takes WEEKS, not days. We buy cars to drive them not have them sit at dealers.
 

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I drive a diesel. It is a 2017 canyon. The exhaust system is definitely issue prone. GMC customer service is more on prevent defense than helpful. That said, it comes down to your dealer and their diesel mechanics. All my area shops have told me their GMC/Chevy mechanics have little experience with the 2.8. So, I bought an android, the torque app, biscan app and a blue tooth OBDC. It gives me access to doing my one maintenance like the NOX sensors (35K and on number 4) as well as a regen. At issue is the high risk of limp mode. I have experienced that on 3 long hunt trips that cost me dearly. My truck gets 30 MPG highway and 26 in the city. I did not lift. I bought a brush guard, fender flares and a cover from real trucks (realtruck.com) and was great customer service and good prices. I change oil every 5k. SO if I was gonna advise a family member (I have) I would say, buy ford! GM does not want customers. The DEF design (no way to flush), Mechanic training is less than a common shade tree, the attitude of the executive office, and the price with low amenities. Yep Ford would be my next choice. when I am not upside down, this thing will be replaced with another make. I know diesels, and the fact that GM isolates you is troubling. If it must be a diesel, check the dealers, identify other diesel owners and find one with trained mechanics. By the way, my experience is with 5 GMC dealers, all say the same thing, good diesel mechanics are hard to find. Every trip for warranty service takes WEEKS, not days. We buy cars to drive them not have them sit at dealers.
Sadly, I agreed with you. It took me a few dealers to find the one I go to now. The mechanic and the service manager make the big difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey guys, sorry I haven't been on in a minute but I've dropped by to read up. I really appreciate the advice, both on parts and on diesel mechanics. I'd heard about their exhaust system having issues, I'm hoping I can stay ahead of them by keeping an eye on them like RendonBob. Burgess159, I'll be sure to keep hACKman in my plans (appreciate the reference, I prefer someone people know and use). Glad to see that the estimates on fuel economy after the lift, guards, and bumpers, won't be putting a shotgun to my foot, I can live with losing a bit of combined mpg. Torch13, thanks for chiming in with personal experience on the cold air intake box, if I get even half the boost you got it'd about make up for the lift and tires (or make it pretty darn close). It'll be a slow-going work in progress; soon as I acquire the truck, I'll post pictures and stats as I go. Feel free to drop in your thoughts throughout the process, I'm pretty good at listening and learning (well... I am NOW, won't speak for my early twenties lol).

Thanks a ton, you guys.
 

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I’ve owned my Canyon Duramax for almost a year. It had 22K miles on it when I got it, and it’s nearing 50K now. Since you mentioned cold weather, get the engine heater - it’s optional so not all have it (mine doesn’t).

Before lift, I’d average about 28 mpg commuting to work (35 miles city/country). Just lifted it, so no post-lift data yet.

It’s a great all around truck IMO. Great mpg, respectable towing, roomy enough for most. More and more parts becoming available.

Lots of lift options. I chose Zone due to local dealer/installer and 560 power train warranty.
A few bumper options. Most change the looks too much for me, but 589 Performance has a hidden winch bumper that is interesting.
All lifts I read about said to be cautious with tire selection due to the electronic steering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'll keep Shield &Spear in mind for hACKman, thank you! Keep me posted on your new fuel economy post-lift, escapepilot, thanks for chiming in. Took a peak at 589 Performance, looks like they were the guys that make skid plates that i found once and never again, and I DO really like how the bumper looks, will definitely keep it in mind. I missed the warnings on electronic steering, but did see a lot for fit and finish. i appreciate you looking out, I'll do more research on that for sure.
 

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Vehicle Trailer Camping Travel trailer Tree
I put a 4 inch lift on mine, added a steel front bumper, added a Leitner active cargo system, and am running on 33 inch tires. It definitely knocked the mileage down. I am getting about 20 to 21 a gallon
 

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Nothing to add to this except for a couple of questions. I've dreamt for years of a small diesel truck and have been lurking here to learn more about the Colorado/Canyon. I still like the package but am wondering about the reliability. I have a 210k mile Toyota that sounds more solid and reliable with every Colorado post I read. Do just the problem trucks get reported here? My second question is regarding the performance mods so often discussed. Does anyone know of emissions impacts of intake, exhaust, and tune mods frequently discussed? I ask because a) I'm subject to emissions testing and b) I sometimes feel like I'm one of not many truck drivers that care about climate change and the health effects of particulates. Any thoughts about emissions impacts, either those that inspection (which appears in my city to just mean checking for mods and looking for visible smoke) might detect or actual post-mod testing?
 

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Nothing to add to this except for a couple of questions. I've dreamt for years of a small diesel truck and have been lurking here to learn more about the Colorado/Canyon. I still like the package but am wondering about the reliability. I have a 210k mile Toyota that sounds more solid and reliable with every Colorado post I read. Do just the problem trucks get reported here? My second question is regarding the performance mods so often discussed. Does anyone know of emissions impacts of intake, exhaust, and tune mods frequently discussed? I ask because a) I'm subject to emissions testing and b) I sometimes feel like I'm one of not many truck drivers that care about climate change and the health effects of particulates. Any thoughts about emissions impacts, either those that inspection (which appears in my city to just mean checking for mods and looking for visible smoke) might detect or actual post-mod testing?
I would say that most of the problems get put up on here. They want to see if other people are having the same problem, or just put the info out there that they got a truck with a problem. I would say that's how most vehicles go. Why post about something if all is well? I will tell you though that my truck has not had any problems in the 2+ years and 61k miles of owning it. I Made it to 46k before deleting it. Ran fine before and since then.

About the emissions. As I said, I'm deleted. I did it to hopefully make my truck more reliable and last longer for me. Rather than break down because the emissions system went out and now I have to either pay thousands, or tens of thousands of dollars to fix the truck, or just sell it. The DPF of the truck does have a service life before it becomes full and then you have to replace it. To my knowledge, there is no cleaning it. I know that would be a few thousand.

But also about the emissions, and this is my personal opinion, so it could not even have any validity to it. But with the emissions systems on our trucks, it does clean them up to where they don't produce more, however it cuts back on our fuel economy, so we can't go as far and have to fuel up more. But without the emissions equipment, our trucks produce more emissions, yet run better and get better mpg's and go farther on a tank, fueling up less. Are we really being that more environmentally friendly if we have to fuel up more? I dunno. Kind of seems like a wash.
 

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Nothing to add to this except for a couple of questions. I've dreamt for years of a small diesel truck and have been lurking here to learn more about the Colorado/Canyon. I still like the package but am wondering about the reliability. I have a 210k mile Toyota that sounds more solid and reliable with every Colorado post I read. Do just the problem trucks get reported here? My second question is regarding the performance mods so often discussed. Does anyone know of emissions impacts of intake, exhaust, and tune mods frequently discussed? I ask because a) I'm subject to emissions testing and b) I sometimes feel like I'm one of not many truck drivers that care about climate change and the health effects of particulates. Any thoughts about emissions impacts, either those that inspection (which appears in my city to just mean checking for mods and looking for visible smoke) might detect or actual post-mod testing?
First off, unlike you I think the Climate change narrative is full of crap. But like you I care about my environment. I believe in tread lightly and protect nature as much as we can. That is the reason why I won’t tune or delete. I like the Diesel engine for its capabilities but dislike the pollution that get emitted. I made up my mind about willing to pay for the emission system repair when the time comes when I made up my mind to buy the truck. So in my opinion it is a win win ,I got the the diesel capabilities and a clean system to protect the environment. Even with the emission systems in tack, I’m getting roughly 22mpg city and 30mpg freeway. So mileage in my opinion is great as is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
View attachment 8121 I put a 4 inch lift on mine, added a steel front bumper, added a Leitner active cargo system, and am running on 33 inch tires. It definitely knocked the mileage down. I am getting about 20 to 21 a gallon
CrineyUS I appreciate the detailed input there, thank you. Leitner's Active Cargo System looks pretty awesome, I'll have to keep them in mind if I end up needing the extra storage down the road some time.
 

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First, here in Dallas there are 3 places that rebuild a DPF for around 250 installed, there is one in OK. Second, the expectation is the DPF will last for 50K. Third, it is listed as 'consumable' not covered under the standard engine exhaust warranty (as told to me at the dealer) I am awaiting to see howling it goes but have plan B in place for a rebuild. I recently replaced Nox Sensor 2 (3rd time, 2 by dealer), performed a reset and ran a service regeneration using Torque with the BiScan add on on an android and all went well. If you are not mechanically inclined, go gas, the lack of strong qualified diesel mechanics at GM/Chevy dealers is criminal. My truck is a 4x4 Denali package and I average 28MPG with no trailer (31 hwy/26 city) based on the onboard computer, but doing the math on fill-ups it is higher on highway lower on city. the Re-gen frequency really impacts mileage and service re-gens hit hard. I see cleaning instructions for the sensors, but rock-auto has them for about $120(Actual AC/Delco part). Towing with a trailer has interesting dynamics. The wind resistance of your trailer has a significant impact. Towing the 4 wheeler on an open trailer I get about 25mpg highway, but with the cargo trailer or boat, i get 21, both are lighter than the ATV, so it has to be wind resistance. I use auto doctor on my iPhone and an elm327 to monitor sensors on trips, I can see exhaust temps increase in a regen and I can see DPF performance (back pressure) having this detail puts my OCD at ease. I change oil and filters every 5K (pennzoil euro dexos2 walmart 6.88 qt, and delco filter amazon 13 bucks). No additives but have found that most diesel is certain 40, and I get the best milage and performance when I find cetane of 42, these trucks were designed for 45. In Texas, the air quality people tell the Feds they mandate 45 cetane for air pollution but the department of Agriculture only tests for 40 so the monitoring arm is in bed with Big Oil. All the newer big rigs have a similar exhaust system, that is why the plumes of black smoke are diminishing. The DPF rebuilds were a side business of the Big Trucks.

Good Luck, but if your dealer does not have a qualified diesel mechanic (not a gas jock that took the cert) then go gas. My truck sits 3-5 days to get looked at even with an appointment because 1, the shop do not pressure the mechanic because they do not want them to leave, and 2. they set up a back log because at the end of the day they do not care about you and I. I will say, I had an issue traveling Texas, while passing through Waco, and that GMC dealer was the most accommodating and helpful of any experience I have had, but here in DFW, diesels are one off's. Maybe the same where you live.
 

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First, here in Dallas there are 3 places that rebuild a DPF for around 250 installed, there is one in OK.
That actually seems like a very reasonable price for rebuilding those. I imagine a new one is at least $1k plus. Thanks for the information. I don't believe that most fuel here in Missouri is much better than a 40 cetane either. I think that the Casey's stations are right at 40, but I do believe that our Shell stations are better as the truck seems like it gets better mpg when using Shell. But, that's also why I run a cetane and lubrication booster (and anti-gel in the winter). Is it needed? I dunno. I would like to think it helps and makes me sleep better at night :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·

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I have friends with ford and Ram diesels. Various vehicles various engines, one thing rings true, the mechanic is the difference between happiness and pain. I believe GM must has the lowest skill requirements for the diesel certifications. That said, if you are in the country, the shops generally have better mechanics. SO, if you study the regen feature on GM and anyone else, you find that the GM process is better on the engine. Cheap and poor quality aside, the engineering is better. All the newer systems have issues because mechanics make more money turning gas vehicle repairs than troubleshooting our diesels. I hope you continue to get good service from your truck, I believe the companies are all made of people and suffer greatly from greed and stupid, no matter the brand.
 

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Hello all, FNG here. Pretty excited about finding this site, actually. Looking to buy a Duramax 2.8L diesel, but I won't lie to you: leaning towards the Canyon. The problem I've been running into, mainly, is the sparsity of centralized information. Hunting through thread after thread, finding bits and pieces here and there that almost get me answers and then fall just short. The majority of the information falls under the HD lines, not the newer mid-size diesels. Found this site, and it's about the closest I've come to the right place (if not THE right place). By all means, tell me if I should be looking at the gasser instead. Definitely don't be afraid to break anything down Barney style, or draw it out for me in crayons. I'm capable with a wrench, worked on my motorcycles myself but by no means a mechanic, so you can explain things to me like I don't know what I'm talking about, won't take it personal. Here's where I'm at:

I want to buy either a Canyon or Colorado diesel. It's going to be my daily driver, but I'll need to find the sweet spot when it comes to the build because of a few things, listed here:

- I live in Kansas City, so the commute to work is fairly dense, mostly highway.
- I take a 1.7K mile trip once a year or more to go camping around Wyoming, Utah, Idaho, Nevada area in forest/desert/mountainous climates. Usually a running water source nearby, been crowded by a river in heavy rain before, but I don't rock crawl or go crazy off-trail in my vehicle.
- I'm all of my friends/family go-to for helping move and pick up furniture/appliances. Towed a trailer twice before to help move, but I don't own a trailer, and needing to tow is fairly rare for me.
- Gets fairly cold where I am, even colder where I go (Dakotas) every so often.

Build I'm needing these options, and looking for recommendations and/or corrections:

- Steel bumpers, front and rear. 'Need' might be a strong word, since I live in a fairly populated city, but my travels take me places. This was a big factor that helped me settle on diesel. I've never owned a diesel personally, but I've driven a couple here and there. A buddy that almost only ever buys diesel said that since I want steel bumpers, I'd taker a little less of a hit to fuel economy if I went diesel. Leaning heavy towards FabFour Premium with full guard. Possible winch upgrade later on.
- Armor under the cab (skid plates and stuff)
- Some sort of lift (reasonable rock clearance, and I'm told I'll need a minimum of 2" lift for the steel bumpers alone anyways. Thinking under 6", over 2" after bumpers.
- All Terrain or Light Terrain tires, told I'll probably need new rims anyways after lift ('something'centric. Hub-centric? Was unfamiliar with the term) I'm open to size and spec recommendations.
- Tune and upgrades likely (First thing the bikes get are better aftermarket air filters, exhaust, and a stage one kit. So I figure I should start with aftermarket exhaust (SB? K&N?), exhaust (Magnaflow?) and DuraMax Tuner tune or Green tune.
- Whatever I'm missing to make these work

Anyone with a similar build, let me know how these affected your handling and fuel economy, or if they reached deeper into your pockets in the long run with related failures of surrounding parts.

I greatly appreciate any insight, time, and efforts for any contributions to this post. I've tried parting experiences together, but it's difficult pulling from multiple vehicles/owners and Frankensteining them together in my head.
I have searched bumpers for some time and last year when I was at the SEMA show I met the group from Expedition-One. Of all the bumpers I have seen, I like this one the best so I bought it. Workmanship is outstanding. I love this bumper and you have the protection if you would hid a dear.
 
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