Changed it out at 5k
Thanks for your recommendations. As @Burgess159 pointed out, I have a rebuttal for everything. I will continue to use the ultra low ash pennzoil platinum euro L full synthetic 5w30 dexos2 and change it out every 5k miles. It's the lowest ash oil on the market that I know of and runs $7/qt. Low ash oil is for the health of the diesel particulate filter and related equipment. I also won't be spending $40 more per oil change for sampling. Sampling won't do me any good in an engine that's covered under powertrain warrantyThe 7,500 mi OCI is a basic guideline. Your actual interval may be longer or shorter depending on how you drive and other operating and environmental conditions.
If you really want to know the ideal OCI get a blackstone kit and have your used oil sampled. Have the TBN checked also. It's around $40 total for the test. I did this with my TDI once, and discovered that the "manufacturer recommended" 10K interval was way to long and now I change it every 7k.
Also, consider using a "real" 5w40 truck oil. Like Rotella T6 or M1 Delvac ESP. If you know about what FCA did with the oil spec for the RAM Ecodiesel then this may make sense... especially to you guys who tow with your 2.8. Low ash oils like dexos2 do not have the additives required to protect your engine or to maintain the TBN for extended duration OCIs.
What did they do with the oil spec?. If you know about what FCA did with the oil spec for the RAM Ecodiesel then this may make sense...
Exactly. Some catch cans have filters and should be sized correctly for the pcv flow under full boost. Racor makes a nice can w/ filter for around $220.So if you add a catch can you keep the oil vapor out of the intake and therefore don't have to worry about the ash content of the oil as much?
The oil vapor mixes with soot from the EGR and creates a placque that accumulates in your intake, turbo, inter cooler and piping. Over the long term it's will cause problems. If you can eliminate the vapor, EGR or both you can eliminate the placque.My 2 cents; I did some preliminary research prior to this thread on some of the topics touched and here are my observations:
Oil: Per GM the 2.8 should only be fed oil that meeds the DEXOS2 or in a bind the ACEA C3 specification and so far the only non GM oil I can find that meets that criteria is Mobil1 5-30 ESP. I'm sure the Delvec and Rotella products will work but while I have an engine and DPF under warranty will be playing it safe.
My first personally done oil change will be with the Mobil1 ESP product
As for the oil catch can; I read that most any one that had a baffle in it was best and the apparent inlet size for Colorado *should* be 19mm 3/4". You can pay anywhere from $25 (ePay) - to $300 or more but from the videos I've seen just go with the ePay China stuff since this is a passive trap device and no real difference exists between a really expensive or a cheaper one except for possibly some vehicle specific mounting brackets and hose kits (which can add up) . There is a lot of informative web information/videos on them. As for need? I'm not so sure the turbo doesn't benefit from a little oil else the factory would have provided the trap like they do for fuel filters. I imagine the need would be if you have a lot of oil from a worn engine or are using a non-low ash oil that will make it to the DPF.
Just for grins I have ordered a oil trap from China for evaluation - but don't expect me to do anything with it for a while since it will need a custom bracket and hoses - and a lot of incentive on my part.