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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had an electrical problem with my 2017 Duramax Colorado. When the dealer fixed that problem they suggested I have my oil cooler lines replaced as they were "rotted". I decided to take a peek for myself. Indeed they are rusty and probably should be replaced. When I asked the dealer for a quote to fix them they quoted me 5-6 hours of labor AND they have to depressurize and repressurize the A/C system.

Has anyone done this before? I'm not quite sure how the A/C system has anything to do with oil cooler lines.
Also, is anyone aware of an aftermarket solution that might include stainless oil cooler lines so I don't have to deal with this $1000-ish repair every 4-5 years?
 

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I had an electrical problem with my 2017 Duramax Colorado. When the dealer fixed that problem they suggested I have my oil cooler lines replaced as they were "rotted". I decided to take a peek for myself. Indeed they are rusty and probably should be replaced. When I asked the dealer for a quote to fix them they quoted me 5-6 hours of labor AND they have to depressurize and repressurize the A/C system.

Has anyone done this before? I'm not quite sure how the A/C system has anything to do with oil cooler lines.
Also, is anyone aware of an aftermarket solution that might include stainless oil cooler lines so I don't have to deal with this $1000-ish repair every 4-5 years?

The engine oil cooler does not attach to the radiator.

If you're talking about the lower lines that go to the radiator that's the transmission cooler lines. Transmission oil runs through a separate cooling section that's attached and mounted in the same side rails as is the radiator. This has nothing to do with the AC condenser that sits in front of that. You could replace the lines from the transmission from underneath the vehicle yourself if you're mechanically capable. If not I would find a trans shop and ask them for a quote because that dealer is not being truthful if it's the transmission oil lines that their speaking about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The engine oil cooler does not attach to the radiator.

If you're talking about the lower lines that go to the radiator that's the transmission cooler lines. Transmission oil runs through a separate cooling section that's attached and mounted in the same side rails as is the radiator. This has nothing to do with the AC condenser that sits in front of that. You could replace the lines from the transmission from underneath the vehicle yourself if you're mechanically capable. If not I would find a trans shop and ask them for a quote because that dealer is not being truthful if it's the transmission oil lines that their speaking about.
I didn't get any pictures, but I can confirm that it's the transmission lines that need replacing. Any tips for replacing them?
 

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I didn't get any pictures, but I can confirm that it's the transmission lines that need replacing. Any tips for replacing them?

NAA they're really pretty straight forward to replace. Just have some cardboard to collect what's going to drain out of the lines. This will save you some clean up time. Have a quart or two of fluid on hand for replacement. Make sure when done the trans temp is set to temp prior to checking the level.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Took off the plastic air dam to replace the lines this morning and found MORE rusty lines! Anyone have any idea what the other line pictured here is? Even better if you have a part number. It’s a small metal line that goes from one side of the engine to the other into rubber hoses.
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Took off the plastic air dam to replace the lines this morning and found MORE rusty lines! Anyone have any idea what the other line pictured here is? Even better if you have a part number. It’s a small metal line that goes from one side of the engine to the other into rubber hoses.
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That line goes to the bottom of the engine oil cooler, see the pics below. Those lines are really rusty I guess the salt sand got to them.


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yea. Northern Vermont loves their salt. Thanks for the research and great drawings. Did you happen to get a part number on that metal line? Thanks!
It's funny I look all over the place for it and interestingly enough I can find a # on Russian sites. It's the same 2.8L LWN but if I run the # on GM parts it doesn't work. I tried to look it up on the GM parts direct site by year and that yielded nothing. I think you may have to go to the dealer and ask them for the # and/or get them to order it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I HAVE ORDERED THE NEW PART! After spending 10 minutes on the phone trying to describe what I needed the parts guy sent me a PDF and confirmed we found the part! $41 and it’s on the way. I don’t have the part number yet, but I’ll add it once I get my receipt.
(part number 13 in the photo
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
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here’s the part number for that oil pipe. The downside is to replace this pipe you have to drop the front differential among other things. So my truck is at the dealer for 7.9 hours of labor. Keep an eye on your trucks friends. This is an expensive fix!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yea. Oh well. I was able to put two coats of Krylon high heat paint while it was at my house before bringing it to the dealer. So hopefully this next one lasts longer than the original
 
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