[RDRP]

I could not find any post on this but cannot imagine I am the only one with this issue. I am trying to remove the left rear upper shock bolt to replace the shock. The bolt will not come out far enough to remove the shock as it hits the DEF tank. I can get it above the tank sheild but it hits the tank. Does the shock change require dropping the tank? It is a 2017 Crew cab with 6.5' box.

 

[SFLTruck]

I could not find any post on this but cannot imagine I am the only one with this issue. I am trying to remove the left rear upper shock bolt to replace the shock. The bolt will not come out far enough to remove the shock as it hits the DEF tank. I can get it above the tank sheild but it hits the tank. Does the shock change require dropping the tank? It is a 2017 Crew cab with 6.5' box.

I was able to change the rears without removing the DEF tank but it was a royal pain in the ass and some bashed knuckles. It's doable but you really need to just man handle the hell out of it.

 

[bigoilbob]

I was able to change the rears without removing the DEF tank but it was a royal pain in the ass and some bashed knuckles. It's doable but you really need to just man handle the hell out of it.

Thanks for the warning. I am ready to change these out in the spring, and watched the leading vid. It was for a gasser, but the videoer mentioned hearing that diesel users might find the DEF tank hard to negotiate. I was going to shine on the warning, but now will be researching the least painful work around..

 

[18-ZR2]

Cut the head off and when your re-installing the new bolt put it back in the opposite direction

 

[rcountry]

Cut the head off and when your re-installing the new bolt put it back in the opposite direction

Can't the nut is welded on the bracket. Ran into this last night looks like I will be pulling the def tank

 

[bigoilbob]

Can't the nut is welded on the bracket. Ran into this last night looks like I will be pulling the def tank

Sorry for the hassle, but thanks for sharing. I hope that there's a utube on DEF tank removal, and that it doesn't have one of those suspicious pauses where the host hides a big struggle.

 

[SFLTruck]

FWIW:

I just took a pry-bar and pushed the DEF tank inward. It only needs somewhere around a 1/4" to 3/8th" it's that close. I didn't even remove the spare when I did mine. From what I understand getting the DEf tank out is a real hassle.

 

[bigoilbob]

FWIW:

I just took a pry-bar and pushed the DEF tank inward. It only needs somewhere around a 1/4" to 3/8th" it's that close. I didn't even remove the spare when I did mine. From what I understand getting the DEf tank out is a real hassle.

IMO, can't be healthy for that tank and related assembly to be pushed around like that. When my shocks get changed out, IF I hire it done, I'm directing the changer outer to leave the tank be. I'll make sure I can watch from close enough to insure compliance.

No vid that I could find for removal. But I did find an exploded schematic of the assembly. Lots of attachments. I cheated and polled family members who sometimes drive the truck. Also checked out the general Colorado forum. Shocks/struts can wait for another year....

 

[SFLTruck]

It's a polymer and fairly flexible and to that end not much movement is needed to pull the bolt just enough to slide the shock out of it's mount, to each their own!

 

[oak1971]

Cordless SawzAll to cut the weld-nut off?

 

[rdh7]

I did this replacement yesterday by myself. Replaced shocks with Bilstein 5100 model at 55k miles (due to leaking driver side); on my standard height 2017CCLBZ71. (1) Removed spare but not heat shield and rear tires for working room. Three photos attached. You don’t need to fully remove or unplug anything from the DEF tank. The first photo shows you the #$%&! bolt interference to the shroud surrounding the DEF tank. Loosened with snug 13/16 box wrench fit. The nut is welded inside the frame box I presume. (2) Used 13mm long socket to remove the driver side DEF tank protector bracket (2x 13mm nut swivel swaged to a fender washer). (3) Used same 13mm socket to remove the driver side (photo) and upper passenger side (photo) swivel nut/washers. (4) The bottom passenger side took a 13mm crow foot and patience since the stud angle wants to drive the nut/washer into the heat shield. Had to wrestle with the heat shield to get the nut assembly and backing plate off. (5) used same 13mm socket to remove the three forward DEF tank bolts that have welded nuts atop (thankfully). The remaining passenger side DEF tank protector bracket keeps the whole tank from falling. (6) Shuffled the DEF tank forward and toward the passenger side enough to remove and reinstall the #$%&! bolt. (7) Start reinstall with the nut/washer from hell atop the heat shield as the stud is shortened by the DEF tank still being forward and to the passenger side. (8) The rest is the reverse of the above. Probably should of removed the heat shield to save time but didn’t want to go find three new push fasteners. Took about two hours total. Thought about shortening the #$%&! bolt but since I couldn't verify the engagement+one diameter, decided not to.