Transmission Fluid Change??
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Still under warranty, so if you feel this is absolutely necessary I would have the dealer perform the service.
I know I hate the dealer, but I would hate for you to have trans problems down the road and have them point the blame at the trans flush done by a small "lube shop" and deny your claim
I know I hate the dealer, but I would hate for you to have trans problems down the road and have them point the blame at the trans flush done by a small "lube shop" and deny your claim
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I have heard mixed things on a Trans Flush. If it is done on a routine, I've heard it's great. But if it's done every once in a great while on a vehicle, not so much. Seems to break loose too much debris that has settled and causes a trans that has run for over 100,000 miles to go out within a few thousand after a flush.
Changing/ gravity draining fluid can have the same affect, I've heard, but is not as forceful as a flush. still need to do them routinely, but could perhaps stretch it farther? I don't know about these transmissions, how often you are supposed to change the fluid. On an Allison 1000, you are supposed to change them like engine oil; every 50,000 to 100,000 miles depending on the fluid you used and how hard you work the transmission. They had a little spin on filter, along with the internal filter, to catch any extra debris. You could change those little filters every other engine oil change and help get rid of any extra crap that that got past the internal filter.
Changing/ gravity draining fluid can have the same affect, I've heard, but is not as forceful as a flush. still need to do them routinely, but could perhaps stretch it farther? I don't know about these transmissions, how often you are supposed to change the fluid. On an Allison 1000, you are supposed to change them like engine oil; every 50,000 to 100,000 miles depending on the fluid you used and how hard you work the transmission. They had a little spin on filter, along with the internal filter, to catch any extra debris. You could change those little filters every other engine oil change and help get rid of any extra crap that that got past the internal filter.
I’ve had issues with the only trans I’ve had flushed. Never had issues from dropping the pan and changing the filter then refill. Just my personal experience, but my 03z71 got flushed and had major issues within 5k miles. Everything else I’ve dropped pan and changed filters, no issues.
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Skip the flush, but change the fluid & filter. I see mention of 200-220 degree trans temps on these forums and others... if you're towing and seeing those temps on a regular basis, I'd change the fluid every 30k miles and only use the highest quality synthetic ATF you can get your hands on.
Don't forget about your transfer case and differentials, either.
Few hundred bucks and a few hours once every 12-24 months is worth it in my opinion. Just be sure to dispose of your used fluids responsibly... have them recycled at your local auto parts store or something.
I use all Amsoil fuilds. I'm a dealer and I like the products, but any high quality full synthetic lubricant that meets manufacturer standards will work fine.
Don't forget about your transfer case and differentials, either.
Few hundred bucks and a few hours once every 12-24 months is worth it in my opinion. Just be sure to dispose of your used fluids responsibly... have them recycled at your local auto parts store or something.
I use all Amsoil fuilds. I'm a dealer and I like the products, but any high quality full synthetic lubricant that meets manufacturer standards will work fine.
Just talked to my dealer and they recommend the flush at 50k and GM recommends doing the filter every 100k. Will probably have them flush it and do the filter.
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A flush is nice because over 90% of the fluid gets replaced whereas when you drop the pan, you might replaced about 60% of the fluid.
The problem with a flush, especially at an independent shop, is that they typically don't flush their equipment throughly between flushes. So you might get 10-20% of some other transmission fluid mixed in with yours. Plus they typically tap into the transmission cooler lines to perform the flush, so you introduce more opportunity for contaminants to enter.
My theory is that dropping the pan and replacing 60% of the fluid as well as the filter and just doing it more often is better than a flush. For what it's worth, I've never had a vehicle with a transmission problem. I've maintained many of my own and family members' vehicles this way and I've not had one vehicle with a transmission problem.
The problem with a flush, especially at an independent shop, is that they typically don't flush their equipment throughly between flushes. So you might get 10-20% of some other transmission fluid mixed in with yours. Plus they typically tap into the transmission cooler lines to perform the flush, so you introduce more opportunity for contaminants to enter.
My theory is that dropping the pan and replacing 60% of the fluid as well as the filter and just doing it more often is better than a flush. For what it's worth, I've never had a vehicle with a transmission problem. I've maintained many of my own and family members' vehicles this way and I've not had one vehicle with a transmission problem.
I have heard, and would like your opinion. That switchingbout to a deeper pan with fins on it not only keeps it cooler (by fins) but the deeper pan hold more fluid meaning keeps transmission cooler still espically when towing. Was thinking of replacing the stock pan with a deep aluminum one.
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They’re almost available from PML.
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This is a very interesting subject. GM in owner’s manual 2016 Canyon has 2 maintenance schedules 1 for “normal” use and 2 for “severe” use. Normal use does not list any transmission service . Severe use has changing at 72,000 miles filter and fluid in transmission and fluid in transfer case. It is weird that there is no dipstick for transmission. The procedure for refilling transmission is unusual to say the least.
At 24,000 miles dealer tried to sell transfer case fluid change, I said no. They have been trying to sell me a diesel induction cleaning for $175 every time I go there for an oil change.
Dealers are pathetic and greedy . It is terrible because their pay system rewards dishonesty.
I wish I could trust GM but all of the strange
Recalls they have had, iI don’t know.
I think I am going to have the fluid and filter changed 50,000 mi intervals. I am uncertain as to by whom. I think maybe by a transmission shop. I used to do things like this myself, but I read the procedure, and you need specialized tools.
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I believe they did away with the dipstick to eliminate the potential for contaminants to enter through. I had also thought about changing mine at 50,000 miles as well. It just doesn't sound all that fun to do, especially the refilling part. I too was thinking of going to a shop to do it. The machine I was thinking of that people said to use is one that doesn't force the fluid out violently but rather sucks out the old fluid into it and then pumps in the new fluid and is more gentle on the trans.
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The confusion gets worse. Talked to 30 year Ford dealer mechanic in Virginia last weekend. He drives HD Ford diesel pickup. According to him you should not do anything to automatic transmission unless problem. New synthetic fluids last a long time. Am going to GMC dealer next week to get NOX recall ECM update. I am going to ask shop foreman what is his opinion.
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Has anyone bothered to change their transmission oil yet and if so how did you do it? What about differential and transfer case as well?
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I just took mine in and it has 28,000 miles and they recommended a transmission change. I replied that its not recommended in the manual at this interval. Feels like they are always trying to upsell you. My guess is 50,000 is a safe bet for the transmission. Any thoughts on the differential interval?
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I changed mine myself around 50k miles. It was a darker red than the new fluid that I put in there. Didn't smell burnt or anything.
I also changed the rear diff oil at the same time. It was pretty dark and gunky. I used AMSOIL Severe Gear when I replaced it. I'm glad I changed that though (however, that oil could get dark instantly when you put it in there, so judging off of color may not be the best indicator).
I didn't get around to doing the front diff or the transfer case just yet. I had a SNAFU when changing the transmission oil so I didn't have enough oil to do the transfer case
And I had someplace to be so I didn't get the front diff done either. I plan to hopefully do those 2 here when I change the engine oil next.
I also changed the rear diff oil at the same time. It was pretty dark and gunky. I used AMSOIL Severe Gear when I replaced it. I'm glad I changed that though (however, that oil could get dark instantly when you put it in there, so judging off of color may not be the best indicator).
I didn't get around to doing the front diff or the transfer case just yet. I had a SNAFU when changing the transmission oil so I didn't have enough oil to do the transfer case
And I had someplace to be so I didn't get the front diff done either. I plan to hopefully do those 2 here when I change the engine oil next.
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GMC's price to 'flush' the transmission is ridiculous. I asked the service rep. the risks in flushing vs. changing oil & filter. He said they only recommend flushing; well I guess so. I'm no mechanic, but the mere fact of flushing the oil without changing the filter and cleaning the metal shaving from the magnet in the pan, not to mention the high possibility of the 'flush' loosening that debris within the filter and magnet and pushing it back thru the transmission; spells t-r-o-u-b-l-e. So, I just changed mine on my GMC Canyon 2.8L turbo Diesel; 67k miles ($48 for filter and gasket, and $12 for Dextron VI oil [6.7qts.]. I don't tow much, my boat now and then ~3 miles to the boat ramp, and the trans oil was really dark and the magnet was caked with about 1/8" of metallic filings; I'm glad I changed it and regret not changing it sooner. It didn't take but 30 min. w/my son helping me hold the pan while I removed the screws. For those that mention in early threads about not having a dipstick, it is located on the passenger side of the transmission right above trans. oil pan; little rubber (~2" dipstick). You can't see it; but you can get to it with your fingers if you pass your hand around your exhaust pipe; make sure exhaust pipe is cool before checking.
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I just changed mine and the gasket could have been reused, though I bought a new replacement and threw the old away. Just be gentle taking the pan off and you will be fine. The gasket that comes from manufacture was made of rubber; not the old cork style gasket.
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It is. Or mine was, thankfully. Got the filter with gasket kit from Rock Auto and it came with the wrong gasket. Never did return it. I put my old gasket back on and it’s been fine for 31k miles. Going to change fluid again in another 14k miles so I’ll try to change the gasket then.
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