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While changing the oil on the truck yesterday, I checked my catch can at the same time and again, had about 1-2 oz. of oil in there. I think the most I've ever had was the last time, which was probably 2-3 oz. Better in the can than in the turbo or intake. I've had the can on the truck for about 24k miles now (currently at 84k miles on the truck). I check it every oil change, although I think I checked it once between changes this time to see if it had any water as I was worried about water freezing in the can; thankfully there was not any.

This video attached is not from this time I checked the truck, but the first time after putting it on the truck. Still gets the point across. Whether you have a BMS, Provent, or Racor can, you really need to look into getting one. When I put mine on, there was quite a bit of oil in the PCV and intake both. A few thousand miles later, I had purchased a boroscope so I used it to check the turbo vanes and they were good as far as not being bent, and also there was no oil there either. So the can is doing its job. Here is the link to the video:

And there is the link to the BMS catch can that American Diesel Power sells: ADP Universal Dual Baffle Catch Can | AmericanDieselPower
Apparently they no longer provide the hoses and bracket with the kit, but it's just heater hose, hose clamps and a bracket that is needed extra (link to their bracket here: ADP Catch Can Bracket v2 | AmericanDieselPower )
 

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While changing the oil on the truck yesterday, I checked my catch can at the same time and again, had about 1-2 oz. of oil in there. I think the most I've ever had was the last time, which was probably 2-3 oz. Better in the can than in the turbo or intake. I've had the can on the truck for about 24k miles now (currently at 84k miles on the truck). I check it every oil change, although I think I checked it once between changes this time to see if it had any water as I was worried about water freezing in the can; thankfully there was not any.

This video attached is not from this time I checked the truck, but the first time after putting it on the truck. Still gets the point across. Whether you have a BMS, Provent, or Racor can, you really need to look into getting one. When I put mine on, there was quite a bit of oil in the PCV and intake both. A few thousand miles later, I had purchased a boroscope so I used it to check the turbo vanes and they were good as far as not being bent, and also there was no oil there either. So the can is doing its job. Here is the link to the video:

And there is the link to the BMS catch can that American Diesel Power sells: ADP Universal Dual Baffle Catch Can | AmericanDieselPower
Apparently they no longer provide the hoses and bracket with the kit, but it's just heater hose, hose clamps and a bracket that is needed extra (link to their bracket here: ADP Catch Can Bracket v2 | AmericanDieselPower )
I installed the Provent 200 at 7,700 mi (10,600 now), and will drain the line with the next oil change. I can see the oil collecting in the drain line, but am resisting the urge to clear it so I can establish a long enough timeline/mileage line for comparisons. There was very little oil residue in the turbo lines at install, and I am hoping that that residue will be replaced with just the dry soot from the EGR. My last oil analysis was 0.20% soot, and I will continue to test for it every other oil change.
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You've definitely got my attention but I'm so ignorant I don't know where these install, how big a job it is, does it affect warranty, etc. Can you point me?
 

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There are a number of threads on coloradofans that do a great job of describing why and how. I would consider an oil/air separator to be a must have on the Duramax, less so on the gassers. Go over to coloradofans and get educated. You can also find out more on youtube.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
link to a video on a truck with 40k and no catch can, much like my truck would have been:


And another video from the same guy installing the ADP can. He didn’t put it in the suggested location Like I did but it works for him. I did have to modify my bracket (which has since been updated) to fit and not hit my ECM. I also had to trim the engine cover (thing that says 2.8 Duramax) since it wanted to rub on the new hose I installed.


It’s an easy enough task. I feel you can do it:)
 

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My main issue was not connecting the Provent, but figuring out a convenient, stable place to mount it. I finally bought two 10" L-brackets at Lowes, cut one leg off one and welded (someone did that for me) it horizontally to the other and then bolted the fixture to the fender well with sealant. Then I ran the drain line to the the skid plate.

A word of caution/advice; don't use heater hose, whichever separator you install. Spend the extra $ and get proper hydraulic hose. They will last forever and won't collapse with age as they are constructed for oil media which is more destructive than coolant.

Good luck!
 

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Just too nervous about it freezing and pushing out a seal or I’d be all over it
I can't speak to other oil/air separators, but the Provent 200 is equipped with two (2) pressure relief valves which divert PVC gasses to the atmosphere (read engine bay) if pressures are too high from freezing or other issues. You may want to refer to the Mann+Hummel videos on YouTube for more information, including contacting their US distributor.

I share your concerns about the freezing issue as I am from MT, but now retired and full-timing in above freezing locales!

Good luck with your search!!
 

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I can't speak to other oil/air separators, but the Provent 200 is equipped with two (2) pressure relief valves which divert PVC gasses to the atmosphere (read engine bay) if pressures are too high from freezing or other issues. You may want to refer to the Mann+Hummel videos on YouTube for more information, including contacting their US distributor.

I share your concerns about the freezing issue as I am from MT, but now retired and full-timing in above freezing locales!

Good luck with your search!!
FYI, the relief valves are at the inlet nipplie and incorporated into the cap and at the outlet nipple. Also, the OEM hose from the PVC valve incorporates a heating element to warm the blowby effluent before it exits the motor, which is why you might want to incorporate it into whatever setup you install, if you decide to install.
 

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Not from my truck (thankfully) these are a few pics from a bone stock truck with 75K miles on it. I have no idea how the MAP sensor in the last pic functions at all...

8604
8605

8607
 
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This pix are from

The pix are from what vehicle, and what am I looking at in pix 3?

Sorry for the ignorance!
The pics are from a stock 2.8 with 75K mostly highway miles on it. Pic 3 is the MAP sensor, which lives in the "throttle body" (not really a TB, but it has a butterfly) area where EGR is added. The sensor is on the inside of th EGR housing on the intake manifold, opposite the silver corrugated looking EGR hose, under the 2.8 plastic engine cover. The sensor is supposed to look like this :rolleyes:

It is not super hard to get to, and it can be squirted/cleaned with solvent and reinstalled. I checked mine, it was lightly crusty but nothing like the photo after 10K EGR enabled miles followed by 30K EGR off miles, all with a catch can since new.

I think running a catch can to eliminate the "glue" from the oil mist and checking/cleaning it every 40K miles or so would suffice to keep it in reasonably good shape on a stock truck. It only has one bolt holding it on, I did not even unplug it - just put a rag under it and squirted it with solvent.
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Got it! So what is the middle pix, and is that oil residue?
 

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Oil and EGR goo in the intake. Actually thought it would be worse. Seen VW diesel pics where it was almost closed off. It seems probable that once black goo starts accumulating, the accumulation accelerates as it has something to accumulate to - kind of like arteriosclerosis.
 

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Glad you finished that cardiologist correspondence course!!

Seriously, thx for the info. That goo looks deadly! I am waiting for my next oil change, about 3k more, for my first empty of the drain line and start accumulating data on Provent performance. I am due one more 'free' oil change and then I am going to do a 5W40 myself and compare results in oil analysis and Provent drainage.
 
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Well, just got my 2nd and last 'free' oil change at 13,342 mi, and had samples taken for the oil and transmission. I had the transmission flushed at 7,787mi so now I will have a baseline for a fluid change down the road, if necessary. Since I don't tow, my reading of the Manual is there is NO change interval (45,000 mi for severe), but I will let Blackstone help me with that by sampling the transmission every 3rd or 4th engine oil oil change.
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I also drained the Provent which has been on the truck since 7,714 mi accumulating whatever blowby is coming from the PCV. I got about 6 drops of moisture and about 1 oz of oil, so a) I should be so happy that there is so little blowby, or b) I should wonder if the Provent is working!
Since the Provent filter had a light coating of oil and there is an excellent comparison test of Provent against a number of other oil/air separators by an engineering university in Western Australia which shows Provent as one of two best, I choose a)!!
Any relevant and/or helpful comments/ observations would be welcomed.
 

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I also drained the Provent which has been on the truck since 7,714 mi accumulating whatever blowby is coming from the PCV. I got about 6 drops of moisture and about 1 oz of oil, so a) I should be so happy that there is so little blowby, or b) I should wonder if the Provent is working! Any relevant and/or helpful comments/ observations would be welcomed.
Have had the Provent on my truck since the beginning. At 1st it did not send much oil into the drain tube, but after awhile, the element got good and saturated, and now I have to empty the drain tube every oil change, I am guessing about 3 ounces of oil each time. It seems the element will hold quite a bit of oil before you start seeing it in the drain. It probably took about 10K miles for that filter to fully load up and really start filling the drain tube.
 
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