Chevy Colorado Diesel Forum banner
61 - 72 of 72 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Good day folks. I have been following this thread for some time now, as well as others on the web. I'd like to offer my experience with this issue and my '17 Canyon 2.8 Duramax.

My issues started with a "service 4wd" light coming on intermittently, followed by codes for the MAF sensor, intake air temp, etc., etc... To the point one day when I had to put the truck into 4-low to navigate a hill, and it became stuck in 4-low with no way to get it out. After a very slow drive home on the freeway and a morning call to roadside to have the thing towed to the dealer, the tech "fixed" the 4wd issue by cutting a wire by the bell housing and running a new wire to the main connector near the fuse panel. He, however, caused my engine brake to quit, and a couple days later a message came on saying "cleaning exhaust filter. Must continue driving". Thought it was just doing a regen, but about 50,000km later, it's apparently still doing its cleaning. Add that to the grinding noise I've had on hard acceleration since I bought the truck new, the uneven tire wear issues, the loud "clunk" from underneath on occasion when turning the truck over, and I seem to have myself a big ol' lemon.

I've tried to have these issues dealt with at the dealer level many, many times at 4 different dealers, all while under warranty. Escalated to GM Canada, who bumped it up through their ranks to the point that I was dealing with their "executive review" team, which only ended with a call from one of their lawyers telling me that there was nothing that they were going to do for me and wiped their hands of the issue.

I even opened a case with CAMVAP, who bounced back and forth with GM until my truck was out of warranty for mileage, and they in turn told me to go fly a kite.

Obviously, there's an issue at the bell housing where the tech "fixed" my truck, and I have noticed some chafing at the A/C lines behind the left front wheel, but it would appear that i am completely on my own as to how to fix it. I loved my truck when it ran properly, but now I'm in a truck that is worthless on a trade with all these obvious issues. I'm at the point where I'm going to have to put the thing on ramps and start looking for broken wires. I ask the gurus here a couple of questions... Would you just order a new complete harness and replace the thing? If I were to take on the project of fixing any broken wires I find, does the size of the patched wire have to be identical to the removed bad section? (might OHM-out differently)

To say I'm frustrated would be the biggest understatement that I've ever made,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
661 Posts
Sorry to hear your issues. Well wire size does matter but only if you put a small wire in place of a larger one. The larger the wire the more current it can safely carry. In those harness I would tend to think most of the wires will be close in size except if the go to things like the alternator, headlights, rear defroster and so on. I would think all the other control wiring would be similar is size.

Just keep in mind bigger is OK smaller is a NO NO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Sorry to hear your issues. Well wire size does matter but only if you put a small wire in place of a larger one. The larger the wire the more current it can safely carry. In those harness I would tend to think most of the wires will be close in size except if the go to things like the alternator, headlights, rear defroster and so on. I would think all the other control wiring would be similar is size.

Just keep in mind bigger is OK smaller is a NO NO.
Thanks for the reply. Obviously a smaller gauge wire wouldn’t necessarily be able to carry as much current. My concern (I should have been more clear) is that if I if I use a larger wire, it may hold a different resistance and the ecm may pick up on that, negating my repair. In any event, I guess I’ll find the obvious break, unless something is grounding out that I can re-insulate, and then source a similar gauge wire for the fix. Looks like I’m in a for a big job. There are more than a few tiny wires running through the two spots where I’ve found chafing (so far). Reminds me of my days of working for the telco splicing phone cables. I hated it then too, but the pay was better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
207 Posts
finally pulled off the wheel well and looked at mine (2017). the protective harness was still intact although it has actually worn a little pattern in that flared part of the A/C line. it was clearly only a matter of time before the harness wore into the wires.
i cut two sections of garden hose and then wrapped two more layers around those with drip irrigation plastic pipe, zip tied the heck out of it. then it occurred to me that if the A/C lines get hot enough, they could melt right through my protective layers. is anybody else concerned about this? even rubber could melt if the metal A/C lines get hot enough. other than using some flexible metal to wrap the wiring with, i can't think of any other melt-proof method. is this a real problem or am i just being too paranoid about it?

NEVERMIND! I just figured out that's the cold side. Hopefully, my fix will work. The only question is how long it will last and how often I need to get in there and check it. Damn GM, this is not a sign of a company designing a vehicle for the long term and they've known about the problem since at least August 2016.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
207 Posts
Just wanted to thank everybody who's contributed to this thread. I armored mine yesterday and ended up attaching the harness directly to the A/C line with a hose clamp. That should stop any chafing. I put hose bits and then found a piece of super thick electrical insulation between the A/C and the harness. It's not pretty but I think it should work and I will check in 10K or so. This would have definitely caused problems in the future without attention. Why GM uses a cheezy, wimpy plastic standoff for something so critical is beyond me (other than cost savings). Anyway, thanks everybody, what a great resource this site is!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
277 Posts
Did the mod described in this thread to my truck awhile ago - great information for sure, problem avoided.

I have an easy assignment for you all. Check your intake charge temp sensor wire. It is a wee fragile little thing, I found mine was chafed today while cleaning the engine. The cover for the fuel line below the temp sensor wire is rough, and it was sawed through the sensor wire's outer insulation, the fragile sensor wires themselves were next. The sensor is $25 at Rock Auto and it could not be easier to replace, but I imagine if the wires wore through it would be a limp mode causing code. Protect it with a little something where it rubs there and it should be fine.

Some pics to show what wire I am talking about, and what it's condition was.


Car Hood Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive design


Automotive fuel system Automotive tire Motor vehicle Synthetic rubber Tread
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
661 Posts
Did the mod described in this thread to my truck awhile ago - great information for sure, problem avoided.

I have an easy assignment for you all. Check your intake charge temp sensor wire. It is a wee fragile little thing, I found mine was chafed today while cleaning the engine. The cover for the fuel line below the temp sensor wire is rough, and it was sawed through the sensor wire's outer insulation, the fragile sensor wires themselves were next. The sensor is $25 at Rock Auto and it could not be easier to replace, but I imagine if the wires wore through it would be a limp mode causing code. Protect it with a little something where it rubs there and it should be fine.

Some pics to show what wire I am talking about, and what it's condition was.


View attachment 9254

View attachment 9255
So Dunken check out how mine is mounted. It does rest on the very corner of the cover but there's no rub marks on it whatsoever. The interesting part, look how the connector is mounted on mine, from the left side of the bracket and 180deg out from yours. So it begs to ask the question who's is mounted improperly?



Hood Light Automotive design Motor vehicle Automotive exterior


Automotive design Motor vehicle Auto part Automotive exterior Automotive fuel system


Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Carbon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
277 Posts
That looks like a better arrangement. Easy enough to just rotate the gray connector so it doesn't rub on the rough fuel line. Oh, and damn, your engine is even cleaner than mine and I just cleaned it :LOL:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
661 Posts
That looks like a better arrangement. Easy enough to just rotate the gray connector so it doesn't rub on the rough fuel line. Oh, and damn, your engine is even cleaner than mine and I just cleaned it :LOL:
Well I've only got 18K on mine and spends most of it's time in the A/C-ed garage. Most of the mileage is towing my trailer because I have a company ride that gets used for everyday use. That truck is so spoiled ! 🤣
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I've been having the same problem with my 2017 Chevy Colorado Z71 2.8 Turbo Diesel (118,000 miles). It started in the spring of this year (2022) with the power steering intermittently turning off and then on (with the "off" time getting longer and longer over the next 6 months). Dealer first told me that it was a bad battery and sold me a new (very expensive) one. Then when it did it again they told me I needed a new rack and pinion - which I couldn't afford.

Then last week the power steering turned back on (after being off for the better part of a month) and then four days later I started getting the Stabilitrak, Trailer Brake, and ABS warning lights and messages.

Then two days later the power steering turned back off. This has clued me in that I'm actually experiencing an electrical issue. I'll be checking the wiring as soon as I'm able to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
335 Posts
I was under my 2017 earlier this week and glanced up at what I believe is the typical wire chaffing location. The harness was indeed tight against the AC line “can“ (pardon my poor description). Upon inspection, no chaffing. But, I thought it was a good idea to address it.

I put a piece of flexible plastic wire harness ”wrap” around that section.

In hindsight, I wonder if that was a good idea. I know one of the ac lines gets hot. Is it that one?
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
661 Posts
You should be fine because the side of the compressor that has the "Muffler" on it is the cooler side. The discharge side is the smaller line and that's the hot one. Even if it was against the hot side it doesn't get hot enough to bother that loom material.
 
61 - 72 of 72 Posts
Top