Was wondering what everybody’s using for engine oil in their 2.8 turbo. I see it call for DEXOS 2. But doing some research they say in 25 it’s going to DEXOS D. I’m wondered if there’s any other brands that have this additive package? Thank you.
Engine oil
DATA
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wow super clean!
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This marks on the cylinder walls are the original cross hatching. I ordered new pistons from Australia that came with wrist pins. The unexpected part of this teardown was how clean everything was. I was quite impressed, since this is an emissions intact diesel. Other than that, no surprises. Even the oil pump looked like it had never seen debris.
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Post #20 in this thread.
More info in the thread over on Colorado Fans, but the short of it is the cam sprocket slipped on the cam because it wasn't properly retightened after replacing the timing belt.
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Thx DD. Must have been a drag to risk all of that good hardware on malwork..
There's a ProVent 200 catch can on this engine, although it hasn't been installed all that long. Turbo inlet looked relatively clean, intake manifold - not so much. Also just a note, I've always run WIX filters on everything. Oil, fuel, air.
How can you tell if the intake is clean or plugged up without taking it off? Thank you.
A good indicator is to pull the MAP sensor in the intake. That is almost always dirty. Use MAF cleaner and a soft brush to clean. Do not use brake or carb cleaner. It would take quite a bit of soot to plug the intake completely. If you're doing some other major work, it's worth removing and cleaning the intake, EGR system, and throttle body.
OK yeah I’ve heard about cleaning that maf sensor. I’m wondering if anybody’s use that GDE compliant tune and seeing how much soot builds up on that sensor after about 25,000 miles with the tune. Be interested to see how much cleaner it would be.
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My MAP sensor was nasty the first time I pulled it while running the stock tune, this was about 1.5 years after I bought the truck new so 20-25k miles.
I also opened the butterfly and took a pic inside my intake which is where the EGR dumps in, this was a couple of years ago.
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I've been running the GDE EPA-compliant tune for 40+k miles, I cleaned the MAP sensor when I flashed the tune and I haven't had to clean it since.
Our trucks have both MAF and MAP sensors, the MAF sensor is at the airbox, the MAP sensor is in the intake manifold just rear of where the EGR outlet is. You have to remove the engine cover and some foam to get to the MAP sensor.
so the map sensor is the one that is the most important to clean. Is that correct? And with all the miles you’ve put on the emission tune it stays real clean now the intake and the map sensor.? Thank you. If I understand you correctly, it makes a big difference with the GDE compliance tune.I've been running the GDE EPA-compliant tune for 40+k miles, I cleaned the MAP sensor when I flashed the tune and I haven't had to clean it since.
Our trucks have both MAF and MAP sensors, the MAF sensor is at the airbox, the MAP sensor is in the intake manifold just rear of where the EGR outlet is. You have to remove the engine cover and some foam to get to the MAP sensor.
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Correct, the MAF sensor shouldn't ever need to be cleaned as long as you don't run a crappy, oiled air filter like a K&N. The MAP sensor in the intake is the one that needs to be checked/cleaned as that is how the computer knows how much boost is being made and if the sensor isn't able to react correctly then it can cause some weird performance issues.
GDE has said they don't fully disable EGR use with the compliant tune but it's obvious that EGR use is minimal and because their tune generates so much less soot in general (longer distances between regens) then that also means when EGR is being used there's less soot being sent to the intake. I do know EGR use is reduced compared to stock as my DEF consumption has increased with their tune, which I'm fine with as less EGR is better for the engine and having to buy DEF more often is a small price to pay.
I also run 2-2.5oz of Diesel Kleen with every fill-up which also helps keep the engine happy due to the cetane boost and it does a great job of keeping the fuel system clean.
dexos 2 ash content oil is .8% or lower. rotella ash content is 1.0%. its a little higher in ash which technically will clog your dpf filter sooner. but that also depends on if your truck burns no oil or a lot of oil. the rotella 5w-40 seems to protect the engine a little better than a 5w-30 oil. i myself use amsoil 5w-30 diesel oil. its not dexos certified but is within dexos approved ash levels. amsoil would have to pay for the dexos 2 label and release its oil formula to get the approved sticker to which they said nope.
thats quite the adventure going that far. fuel dilution has been minimal with that many miles on it? impressive.
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I've been using Rotella-T6 0W/40 or 5W/40 for the last 3 years with no problems. In fact, I get a little better mileage, and the engine is much quieter, and just runs smoother. I also have a great CCV or catch can system on it as well as a low micron bypass filter system. Photos of my system can be found on this website.
nice! i would have thought the heavier oil would decrease mileage.
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