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Just replaced my DEF pump today. Thanks alot for the DIY Instructions and Pics. The only thing that stumped me was when i took the old pump out this little metal rod fell out. Not sure if that was part of the pump or somehow made it's way into the tank.
 

Attachments

This is discussed on another site. Let's see if this link works:
Metal Rod Post

 
This is discussed on another site. Let's see if this link works: Metal Rod Post
Ok thank you. Looks like they never said for sure if it was supposed to be installed back in the outgoing line or not. I sent a reply asking.
 
Got the Poor Exhaust Fluid message and limp mode warning.
DTC code was for Low Reductant Pressure.
Did some checking and found a TSB indicating my 2016 may have a bad pump and should be replaced.
Pump cost from Rock Auto was $522.59 and 5 days shipping.
Dealer estimate to replace is $2500 - $3500.
Yeah, Right!
Drop the spare.
Remove heat shield - 3 plastic push fasteners.
Remove filler tube at tank and snake a drain line in and drain the DEFF. 5 gallon bucket if tank is full.
Remove 4 nuts to remove 2 support/protection bars.
Remove 5 push fasteners to remove outer cover of tank.
Disconnect injector line at pump and disconnect electrical connectors.
Remove 5 bolts and carefully drop tank down and remove line on top of tank
First time it goes slow.
Goes back together much faster.
Save your cash.
You can do this without even jacking the truck up.
Thanks for the info. I have a similar problem, code p1050 and my level reads - -%, how do I know if it’s the pomp level switch or the DEF controller? 2017 Colorado everything was fine until I added DEF to the tank when I got the 1000 mile warning.
 
Joe:

I think you’ll find the resistance test to be pretty easy. There’s an explanation on Colorado Fans. Let’s see if this link works.
Resistance Test

Yup. Link worked. That thread will show you the resistance ranges and pinout. And then at the very bottom there’s a link to a how-to on the def pump replacement, if you need additional info beyond this thread.
 
Joe:

I think you’ll find the resistance test to be pretty easy. There’s an explanation on Colorado Fans. Let’s see if this link works.
Resistance Test

Yup. Link worked. That thread will show you the resistance ranges and pinout. And then at the very bottom there’s a link to a how-to on the def pump replacement, if you need additional info beyond this thread.
Now my level indicates ok for 30 seconds, then _ _% for 45 seconds……. I think that I’m going to have to replace the whole thing! Pump, level switch assembly. Any suggestions before I spend 750$?????
 
Now my level indicates ok for 30 seconds, then _ _% for 45 seconds……. I think that I’m going to have to replace the whole thing! Pump, level switch assembly. Any suggestions before I spend 750$?????
I suggest starting with the resistance test. You’ll be done before breakfast and you’ll know if the pump or controller is bad.
 
Ok thank you. Looks like they never said for sure if it was supposed to be installed back in the outgoing line or not. I sent a reply asking.
The mysterious metal rod goes in the DEF pump. It slides into the cylindrical white plastic part on the pump, that the injector connects to. The rod has one side that is tapered, the tapered end slides in first.
 
Thank you all for the write-ups on this. I ended up doing mine last weekend. I had it done in under 2 hours. I did soak the filter in death for 2 days before I installed it.
 
Hello, Ive got the P208A code. Took it to the local shop yesterday. DEF pump is cooked. They want 1500 buck to do the job. I can do the work. My question is about the DEF relearn they say is required after the pump is replaced. Is this a true statement? The truck is currently in the xx miles till 65mph max mode.
 
I know the Resistance Test says at the end to perform the Reductant System Tamper Service Bay Test to clear "Service Emission System" or "Service Exhaust Fluid" system warning messages. But, I don't recall having to run that test.

You may decide to run the Resistance Test before you start to confirm that the "cooked" part is the A38 Reductant Pump and Sensor Assembly and not the K115 Reductant Control Module.
 
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